Rhubarb is a classic British perennial vegetable (technically a vegetable, though used as a fruit) that thrives in the UK climate. Easy to grow and incredibly productive, a single rhubarb crown can provide harvests for 10-20 years with minimal care. The patience required in year one is the only hard part — I've never regretted leaving a crown unpicked that first season. This comprehensive guide will show you how to grow rhubarb successfully from planting to harvest.
Watch The Rhubarb Growing Video
Rhubarb rewards the right crown position, mulch and patience, especially in UK gardens with heavy soil. The RHS recommends establishing it from bare-root crowns in winter and not harvesting at all in the first year.
Use the how-to page for planting and aftercare, then check the timing page before planting or dividing crowns.
Not sure when to plant? See our When to Plant Rhubarb UK →
Founder & Head Grower, SoilCommander · RHS Level 2 · 12+ years growing in Yorkshire
I've been growing vegetables on my Yorkshire allotment and raised beds since 2012. Everything I write is based on what I've actually grown, failed at, and eventually got right in a real UK climate.
Quick Growing Facts
- Planting Time: November to March (dormant crowns)
- Harvest Time: April to July (year 2 onwards)
- Lifespan: 10-20+ years
- Difficulty: Very easy
- Position: Full sun to partial shade
When to Plant Rhubarb
Rhubarb is usually grown from crowns (root divisions):
- Dormant crowns: Plant November-March (best time)
- Pot-grown plants: Can be planted any time, but autumn-spring is ideal
- Division: Divide established clumps in November-February
- From seed: Possible but slow and variable; sow in spring
Soil Preparation
Rhubarb is a long-term crop that needs rich, well-prepared soil:
- Soil type: Deep, rich, moisture-retentive but well-drained soil
- Dig deeply: Work soil to at least 30cm (12 inches) depth
- Add organic matter: Dig in plenty of well-rotted manure or compost
- pH level: Slightly acidic to neutral (pH 6.0-7.0)
- Good drainage: Rhubarb won't tolerate waterlogged soil
- Permanent position: Choose carefully - plants will be there for many years
How to Plant Rhubarb
Planting Crowns:
- Dig large holes: Make holes 30cm (12 inches) deep and wide
- Add compost: Mix well-rotted manure or compost into planting hole
- Plant crowns: Place crown so buds are just below soil surface (2.5cm/1 inch deep)
- Spacing: Space crowns 90cm-1m (3 feet) apart
- Backfill: Fill hole with soil and firm gently
- Water well: Water thoroughly after planting
- Mulch: Apply mulch around (not over) crowns
💡 Top Tip
Don't harvest any stems in the first year after planting - let the plant establish a strong root system. In the second year, harvest lightly for 4-6 weeks. From the third year onwards, harvest freely for 8-10 weeks.
Ongoing Care
- Watering: Water during dry spells, especially when young
- Feeding: Apply well-rotted manure or compost as mulch each autumn or spring
- Mulching: Mulch annually to retain moisture and suppress weeds
- Remove flower stalks: Cut off any flower stalks as soon as they appear to direct energy to leaf production
- Weeding: Keep weed-free, especially when young
- Winter care: Remove dead foliage in autumn; plants are fully hardy
- Division: Divide congested clumps every 5-6 years in winter
Forcing Rhubarb
- Timing: Force in January-February for harvest in March-April
- Method: Cover crowns with forcing pots, buckets, or bins to exclude light
- Insulation: Surround with straw or leaves for extra warmth
- Results: Produces long, tender, pink stems 6-8 weeks earlier than normal
- Rest after forcing: Don't force the same crown two years running; let it recover
- Don't harvest: Don't harvest forced crowns later in the season - let them recover
Common Problems
Crown rot: Fungal disease causing crown to rot. Ensure good drainage; remove and destroy affected plants.
Honey fungus: Fungal disease causing plant death. No cure; remove affected plants and don't replant rhubarb in same spot.
Slugs and snails: Can damage young shoots. Protect with barriers or organic pellets.
Bolting (flowering): Remove flower stalks immediately to maintain stem production.
Harvesting Rhubarb
- Year 1: Don't harvest - let plant establish
- Year 2: Light harvest for 4-6 weeks (April-May)
- Year 3+: Full harvest for 8-10 weeks (April-July)
- Pull, don't cut: Grasp stem at base and pull with a twisting motion
- Size: Harvest when stems are 30-45cm (12-18 inches) long
- Leave some stems: Always leave at least 4-5 stems on the plant
- Stop harvesting: Stop by end of July to allow plant to build up reserves
- Remove leaves: Cut off and compost leaves immediately (they're toxic)
Storage
- Fresh: Store stems in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks
- Freezing: Chop into chunks and freeze raw for up to 12 months
- Cooking: Stew and freeze for up to 12 months
- Preserving: Make into jam, chutney, or pickle
Recommended Varieties
Early Varieties (good for forcing)
Timperley Early
Very early with slender pink stems — the best choice if forcing for the earliest possible harvest.
Champagne
Early-cropping with bright red stems and a notably sweet flavour, good for eating raw or lightly cooked.
Maincrop Varieties
Victoria
The classic reliable all-rounder with heavy yields — the safest first choice for most gardens.
Glaskin's Perpetual
Can be harvested in its first year if grown from seed, with a longer cropping season than most.
Raspberry Red
Deep red stems that hold their colour when cooked — worth growing if appearance in the kitchen matters to you.
Late Varieties
Fulton's Strawberry Surprise
A late-season variety with bright red, sweet stems — useful for extending the harvest into late summer.
Stockbridge Arrow
Very long, thick stems and a heavy cropper late in the season — good if you want fewer, larger harvests.
Essential Tools & Supplies
Rhubarb was classified as a fruit by a US customs court in 1947 to reduce import tariffs — botanically it's a vegetable, since we eat the leaf stalk rather than a fruiting body.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why can't I harvest rhubarb in the first year?
A newly planted crown needs its first season to build a strong root system. Harvesting early weakens the plant permanently and reduces yields for years afterwards. Be patient — it's worth the wait.
Can I grow rhubarb in a container?
Yes, in a large container at least 45cm deep and wide, but expect a shorter productive life than in open ground. Feed and water more often, since containers dry out and deplete nutrients faster.
Why are my rhubarb stems thin and pale?
This usually means the crown needs feeding or dividing. Apply a generous mulch of well-rotted manure each spring, and divide congested clumps every 5-6 years to restore vigour.
Is it true rhubarb leaves are poisonous?
Yes — rhubarb leaves contain high levels of oxalic acid and should never be eaten. Always cut off and compost the leaves immediately after harvesting the stems; they are safe to compost.
Can I force rhubarb every year?
No — forcing is exhausting for the crown. Rest a forced crown for at least one season afterwards before forcing it again, or alternate forcing between two or more crowns if you want forced rhubarb annually.
Watch this short guide on how to grow rhubarb in the UK garden — from planting crowns in autumn or spring to pulling your first tender stems in year two.
🌱 Did you know? Rhubarb leaves are toxic due to high oxalic acid content — always remove and compost them immediately after harvesting the stems.
Plan Your Vegetable Garden
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