Aubergines (eggplants) are exotic, rewarding vegetables that can be successfully grown in the UK with warmth and protection. With their glossy purple fruits and attractive foliage, aubergines make beautiful as well as productive greenhouse plants. They're one of the more demanding crops I grow — without a heated propagator in February, mine simply don't catch up by harvest time.
Not sure when to sow? See our When to Plant Aubergines UK →
Founder & Head Grower, SoilCommander · RHS Level 2 · 12+ years growing in Yorkshire
I've been growing vegetables on my Yorkshire allotment and raised beds since 2012. Everything I write is based on what I've actually grown, failed at, and eventually got right in a real UK climate.
Watch our guide to growing aubergines in the UK — from sowing in a heated propagator to harvesting glossy fruits in your greenhouse or polytunnel.
🌱 Did you know? Aubergines are actually berries botanically — and despite their name, they contain no egg and are more closely related to tomatoes and potatoes than to any fruit!
Quick Growing Facts
- Sowing Time: February to April indoors
- Harvest Time: July to October
- Growing Time: 20-30 weeks from sowing to first harvest
- Difficulty: Moderate to challenging
- Position: Greenhouse or polytunnel (warmest, most sheltered spot) — the RHS notes aubergines need a long season and should be grown under glass in all but the warmest UK spots, pinching out the growing tip at about 30cm to encourage fruit
When to Sow Aubergines
- Indoor sowing: February-April in a heated propagator (essential)
- Early sowings: February-March for best results (need 21-25°C)
- Greenhouse essential: Aubergines rarely succeed outdoors in the UK
- Long season needed: Allow 20-30 weeks from sowing to harvest
Soil and Compost Preparation
- Container growing: Use good quality multipurpose or tomato compost (recommended)
- Greenhouse borders: Enrich soil heavily with well-rotted manure or compost
- Drainage: Ensure excellent drainage; aubergines hate waterlogged conditions
- pH level: Slightly acidic to neutral (pH 6.0-7.0)
- Pot size: Final pot size should be at least 10-12 litres (2.5-3 gallons)
How to Sow Aubergines
- Use small pots or modules: Fill with seed compost
- Sow on surface: Place 2-3 seeds per pot on the surface
- Cover lightly: Cover with a thin layer of vermiculite or sieved compost
- High heat essential: Keep at 21-25°C (70-77°F) for germination
- Heated propagator needed: Germination takes 10-21 days with consistent warmth
- Good light: Move to bright, warm location (18-20°C minimum) once germinated
- Thin to strongest: Remove weaker seedlings, leaving one per pot
💡 Top Tip
Aubergines are even more heat-demanding than tomatoes or peppers. A heated propagator is essential for successful germination. Don't attempt to grow aubergines without adequate warmth — they simply won't thrive.
Potting On and Planting Out
- First potting: Move to 7.5cm (3 inch) pots when 2-3 true leaves appear
- Second potting: Transfer to 12.5cm (5 inch) pots when roots fill smaller pots
- Final potting: Move to final 10-12 litre pots in late April-May
- Greenhouse only: Plant in heated greenhouse borders or large pots
- Temperature: Maintain minimum 18°C, ideally 20-25°C
- Spacing: Space plants 60cm (24 inches) apart
Ongoing Care
- Watering: Keep compost consistently moist but not waterlogged; water regularly, especially when flowering and fruiting
- Feeding: Feed weekly with high-potash tomato fertiliser once first flowers appear
- Support: Stake plants to prevent stems breaking under fruit weight
- Pinching out: Pinch out growing tip when plants reach 30-40cm (12-16 inches) to encourage bushier growth
- Restrict fruits: Allow only 5-6 fruits per plant for best size and quality
- Remove side shoots: Pinch out side shoots below first flower for stronger plants
- Temperature: Maintain 20-25°C for best growth; provide ventilation if over 30°C
- Humidity: Mist plants occasionally to aid fruit set and deter red spider mite
Common Problems
Poor fruit set: Often due to temperatures too low or too high. Maintain 20-25°C and tap flowers gently to aid pollination.
Red spider mite: Tiny mites causing yellowing, mottled leaves. Increase humidity, mist regularly, and use biological controls.
Aphids: Small sap-sucking insects on growing tips. Spray with soapy water or use biological controls.
Whitefly: Small white flying insects. Use yellow sticky traps and biological controls.
Blossom end rot: Dark patches on fruit base. Maintain consistent watering to prevent calcium deficiency.
Harvesting Aubergines
- Timing: First harvest usually 20-30 weeks after sowing (July-October)
- Size: Harvest when fruits reach full size for the variety (usually 10-20cm/4-8 inches)
- Glossy skin: Pick when skin is still glossy and firm; dull skin indicates over-maturity
- Press test: Gently press skin — it should spring back; if indentation remains, fruit is ready
- Cut, don't pull: Use secateurs or sharp knife to cut fruits with 2.5cm (1 inch) of stem
- Regular picking: Harvest regularly to encourage more fruit production
- Handle carefully: Fruits bruise easily
Storage
- Fresh: Store in the refrigerator for up to 1 week
- Don't refrigerate too long: Quality deteriorates after a week
- Room temperature: Can be kept at room temperature for 2-3 days
- Freezing: Slice, blanch, or roast before freezing for up to 6 months
- Preserving: Roast and preserve in oil, make into baba ganoush, or pickle
Recommended Varieties
Moneymaker
F1 hybrid, early and reliable with classic glossy purple fruits — a sensible default for a first attempt.
Black Beauty
Traditional variety producing large fruits — good if you want fewer, bigger aubergines per plant.
Bonica
Very productive F1 hybrid with good disease resistance — worth choosing if red spider mite has been a problem before.
Ophelia
Compact F1 hybrid bred for containers — the best choice if greenhouse space is limited.
Essential Tools & Supplies
Restricting an aubergine plant to just 5-6 fruits isn't wasteful — it's the opposite. Letting every flower set fruit spreads the plant's limited energy too thin, producing many small, poor-quality aubergines instead of a handful of good ones.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why won't my aubergine flowers set fruit?
Usually temperature — below 20°C or above 30°C, pollination becomes unreliable. Gently tap or brush open flowers by hand to help pollen transfer, especially in a closed greenhouse with little airflow.
Can I grow aubergines outdoors in the UK?
Only in the warmest, most sheltered southern gardens, and results are unreliable even then. A greenhouse or polytunnel gives far more consistent harvests almost everywhere in the UK.
Why are my aubergine leaves turning yellow and mottled?
This is the classic sign of red spider mite, which thrives in hot, dry greenhouse conditions. Increase humidity by misting regularly and consider biological controls if the infestation is established.
How many aubergines should I expect per plant?
Restricting plants to 5-6 fruits gives the best size and quality. A well-grown plant under glass can comfortably ripen this many across a season.
Do I need to prune aubergine plants?
Yes — pinch out the growing tip at 30-40cm to encourage a bushier shape, and remove side shoots below the first flower. This directs the plant's energy into fewer, stronger fruiting stems.
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