How to Grow Potatoes UK

On this page
  1. Potato (Solanum tuberosum)
  2. Watch: Growing Potatoes in the UK
  3. Quick Facts
  4. At a Glance
  5. Regional Planting Calendar
  6. Chitting Seed Potatoes
  7. Planting Method
  8. Soil & Growing Conditions
  9. Growth Stages
  10. Earthing Up
  11. Watering and Feeding
  12. Companion Planting
  13. Harvest & Storage
  14. Harvest Timing & Regional Notes
  15. Recommended UK Varieties
  16. Charlotte and Maris Piper Planting Dates
  17. Growing Potatoes in Bags
  18. Where to Go Next
  19. Plan your Potatoes planting
  20. Growing Potato in another region
  21. References
  22. Common Mistakes to Avoid
  23. Diseases
  24. Pests
  25. Nutrient Issues
  26. Frequently Asked Questions

Potatoes go in the ground in two waves: first earlies from mid-March, maincrop from mid-April, in a site that isn't prone to late frosts since young shoots are frost-tender. Harvest 70–140 days later depending on variety.

The short answer

Plant
Mid March to mid April
Ready in
70–140 days
Site
soil pH 5.2–6
Biggest risk
Powdery scab

Core growing advice on this page is checked against named horticultural sources — see References.

Potato (Solanum tuberosum)

Flowering potato plant in a field near Trimingham, Norfolk, showing the white flower with yellow anthers. Photo: Kolforn, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons.

Also known as: Irish potato, Papa · 16 sources cited · Verified

Watch: Growing Potatoes in the UK

A quick practical video from SoilCommander on growing potatoes and other vegetables in UK conditions — chitting, planting depth and spacing, and keeping plants healthy through the season.

Quick Facts

Factor Value
Soil pH 5.2 - 6
Time to harvest 70-140 days
Soil texture Rich, fertile soil worked with plenty of organic matter -- garden compost or well-rotted manure -- before planting, especially on light soils, with a general-purpose fertiliser applied at planting.
Drainage Well-drained but moisture-retentive; potatoes need steady moisture as tubers bulk up but will rot in waterlogged ground.
Lifecycle Herbaceous perennial botanically, but grown horticulturally as an annual crop: propagated from tubers ("seed potatoes"), planted and harvested within a single growing season. Member of the nightshade family (Solanaceae), the fourth most important food crop globally after wheat, maize and rice (Kew).
Edible parts tuber
Documented problems 6 diseases, 4 pests, 1 nutrient issue

At a Glance

Solanum tuberosum Potato Common scab Powdery scab Black scurf and stem ca… Blackleg Late blight (potato bli… Cucumber mosaic virus Potato cyst nematodes (… Slugs Wireworms Snails DISEASES PESTS

Regional Planting Calendar

Region Sow
United Kingdom mid March to mid April
United Kingdom - detail & sources

RHS gives the UK planting window as mid-March to April for first earlies and from mid-April for maincrop. The range stored here spans first earlies through to the start of maincrop planting; the harvest section gives the full three-tier breakdown. Choose an open, sunny site that is not prone to late April and May frosts, since young shoots are frost-tender.

A page from the UK Vegetable Garden Planner PDF: the crop rotation planner, with a planning grid and four-bed rotation tips

Plan your potatoes — and the rest of the plot

This page covers potatoes. For every crop's sowing months on one chart, use the free UK vegetable planting calendar, and browse the UK vegetable growing guides for what else to grow alongside it. When you want the whole season on paper, the UK Vegetable Garden Planner is a printable PDF:

  • Twelve month-by-month sowing and harvest spreads
  • Raised bed, allotment and container layout pages for your own plot
  • A four-year crop rotation planner
  • Seed inventory, sowing log and harvest tracker
See inside the UK Vegetable Garden Planner →

80 printable pages · instant PDF download · reprint every season

Chitting Seed Potatoes

Chitted seed potatoes with short sprouts in a cardboard egg tray — Chitted seed potatoes sprouting in an egg tray. Photo: Kangarooth, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons.
Chitted seed potatoes sprouting in an egg tray. Photo: Kangarooth, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons.

Chitting means allowing seed potatoes to sprout short shoots before planting, to give them a head start. Stand the tubers in egg boxes or seed trays with the eyes uppermost, in a bright, frost-free place. For first and second earlies, start in late January in milder areas and up to early March in colder spots: the process takes four to six weeks, until the sprouts are about 5cm (2in) long. There's no real advantage to chitting maincrop varieties, which grow over a much longer period (RHS).

Read our full chitting potatoes guide ->

Planting Method

Dig trenches or individual holes 10–15cm deep. Place seed potatoes rose-end up. Spacing: 30cm apart for first earlies, 37cm for second earlies, 45cm for maincrop. Rows 45–60cm apart for earlies, 75cm for maincrop. Cover with soil and water in. Earth up shoots as they emerge to protect from frost and to encourage tubers to form along the buried stem.

Soil & Growing Conditions

Water: Keep well watered, particularly through dry spells while tubers are bulking. Extension guidance quantifies this as 1-2 inches (roughly 25-50 mm) of water per week.

Soil pH range

5.2 6

Span reflects genuine variation between the cited authorities, not a single agreed figure.

Growth Stages

Stage BBCH Notes
Chitting & planting (seed potatoes) 0 Seed potatoes are pre-sprouted ("chitted") before planting, especially for first earlies. Plant in a trench or individual holes 7-15cm deep with shoots facing upward, covering with at least 2.5cm of soil; site must be open, sunny, and not prone to late frosts (RHS). Spacing: earlies ~30cm apart in rows 60cm apart; maincrop ~37cm apart in rows 75cm apart (RHS).
Shoot emergence & earthing up 3 Shoots emerge and haulm (foliage) develops. "Earthing up" (mounding soil/compost over the lower stems) is carried out as shoots grow, covering the lower two-thirds of the plant. This protects young shoots from frost and prevents developing tubers being exposed to light, which turns them green and toxic (RHS, Kew). No RHS-specified numeric day-count for this stage was found; height-based timing (~20cm shoots) is used instead of days.
Flowering 6 White to pink, purple or blue flowers, ~2.5cm diameter with yellow anthers, in axillary inflorescences (Kew). Flowering is not required for tuber formation and its absence is not a sign of a problem; timing and profusion vary by cultivar. Fruit (an inedible berry) is rarely produced in cultivation.
Tuber bulking 7 Main phase of tuber enlargement below ground. This is the growth stage most vulnerable to yield loss if potato blight causes early defoliation, since the plant loses its capacity to bulk tubers once the haulm is destroyed (RHS). Potassium is the key nutrient for tuber development at this stage.
Haulm senescence & lifting 8 Foliage (haulm) yellows and dies back naturally (maincrop) or is deliberately cut off at ~25% blight-affected leaf level to protect tubers (RHS). Maincrop tuber skins are left to harden for about two weeks after haulm removal before lifting, which also reduces skin damage in storage. First/second earlies are lifted directly once the target size/timing window is reached, without waiting for full die-back.
Post-harvest dormancy & storage 9 Harvested tubers are stored cool, dark and frost-free; check regularly for decay. Tubers exposed to light (in the ground or in storage) turn green and accumulate toxic solanine and must be discarded, not eaten (Kew). Tubers from a blight-affected crop should be used promptly rather than stored, and any stored batch should be checked regularly since blight-related rot can spread in store (RHS).

Earthing Up

Earth up when shoots reach 20–25cm, drawing soil from between rows up around the base of plants to leave just the top few leaves showing. This prevents tubers near the surface from turning green (green potatoes contain solanine and are inedible). Earth up two or three times through the season.

Watering and Feeding

Water consistently once tubers begin to form — irregular watering causes hollow hearts and cracking. A good soaking every 10–14 days in dry weather is better than frequent light watering. Feed with a high-potash liquid feed once flowering begins to encourage tuber development.

Companion Planting

Gardener planting tomato seedlings beside a greenhouse — Maasaak, CC BY-SA 4.0
Maasaak, CC BY-SA 4.0
avoid shared disease

Solanum lycopersicum

Both are Solanaceae hosts of the identical Phytophthora infestans (late blight) pathogen, of potato cyst nematode (Globodera rostochiensis/pallida), and powdery scab (Spongospora subterranea, root infection on tomato); soil or compost that grew one should not be reused to grow the other in the…

avoid shared disease

Solanum melongena

Clemson HGIC gives a three-year solanaceous rotation for eggplant twice over: for bacterial wilt, "do not plant eggplant in areas that have had tomatoes, Irish potatoes, or eggplant planted in the previous three years"; and for southern blight, "avoid planting in areas where tomatoes, peppers,…

Harvest & Storage

When to pick: Potatoes fall into three broad timing groups, each with its own planting-to-lifting window. First earlies are usually ready 10-12 weeks after planting, once plants have flowered and tubers are around golf-ball sized. Second earlies follow at 13-14 weeks, as plants begin to yellow and tubers are larger. Maincrop varieties take 15-20 weeks and are lifted once the haulm (foliage) dies back fully and skin sets firm -- allow about two weeks after that point so skins harden before lifting. Exact calendar dates depend on your local frost dates and season length; the UK page's Regional Planting Calendar and Harvest Timing sections give month-by-month specifics for UK growers.

Storage

Cure lifted tubers at 55-60°F (13-16°C) in high humidity for two to three weeks so skins set, then store in the dark in a cool, frost-free place -- in paper or hessian sacks, or on slatted trays. Check stored tubers regularly for decay: blight-affected tubers can rot in store even when they looked sound at lifting, so use tubers from a blighted crop promptly rather than storing them.

Harvest Timing & Regional Notes

Type Harvest Sign to Look For
First earlies Jun–Jul Plants have flowered; tubers golf-ball sized
Second earlies Jul–Aug Plants beginning to yellow; larger tubers
Maincrop Aug–Oct Foliage dies back fully; skin sets firm

Regional Planting Notes

The RHS advises planting slightly later in colder regions and earlier in milder ones — in Scotland and northern England, start chitting seed potatoes as late as early March, compared with late January in milder southern areas, and delay planting out accordingly.

Potatoes — UK growing calendarJFMAMJJASONDSow outdoorsHarvest
UK-wide guide months — see the regional notes for north/Scotland shifts. Source: RHS growing guidance.
  • Charlotte — AGM first early, waxy salad potato, reliable across the UK
  • Maris Piper — classic all-rounder maincrop, good for roasting, chipping and baking
  • Sarpo Mira — maincrop with strong blight resistance, useful in wetter summers
  • Rocket — very early first early, one of the quickest to crop

Charlotte and Maris Piper Planting Dates

Plant Charlotte potatoes from March to April after chitting them in February or March. Charlotte is commonly grown as a second early and harvested in July or August.

Plant Maris Piper potatoes in April because they are usually grown as a maincrop variety. Harvest from late summer into autumn once the plants have finished growing and the foliage has died back.

Growing Potatoes in Bags

Potatoes can be grown in bags and containers, especially first earlies and Christmas potatoes. Containers warm quickly, fit small spaces and make harvesting easier, but they dry out faster than open ground. Use good compost, water consistently and avoid overcrowding each bag.

Plan your Potatoes planting

When to sow and plant Potatoes depends on your own frost dates. Check the UK vegetable planting calendar, or the month-by-month guides that cover Potatoes: January, March, April, May, June, July, September, December. To work out where it fits in your beds, sketch your plot in the free Garden Layout Planner.

Growing Potato in another region

Sowing dates, frost timing and local advice differ by country. Use the guide for where you garden.

References

  1. Names Phytophthora blight, bacterial wilt, southern blight and Phomopsis blight as the diseases, and aphids/whiteflies, flea beetles, Colorado potato beetle, hornworms, stink and leaf-footed bugs, and spider mites as the pests, each with symptoms and management. Carries the three-year solanaceous rotation rule for both bacterial wilt and southern blight.

  2. usageKey 2930262, ACCEPTED, EXACT match, confidence 97. Confirms family Solanaceae, genus Solanum.

  3. Accepted name, native range (W & S South America to NW Venezuela), Kew Species Profile description, uses, toxicity (solanine/glycoalkaloids in green parts), nutrition (vitamin C, ~25% of European dietary intake).

  4. Core cultivation guide: chitting, planting depth/spacing, earthing up, sun/soil requirements, earlies/second-earlies/maincrop classification.

  5. States explicitly: "The same pathogen also affects tomatoes." Full biology, symptoms, non-chemical control, no fungicides available to UK gardeners.

  6. Globodera rostochiensis and G. pallida. Full biology, life cycle, symptoms, management (rotation, resistant cultivars, hygiene). Explicitly affects potato and tomato/aubergine.

  7. Common scab (Streptomyces spp.) and powdery scab (Spongospora subterranea). Powdery scab explicitly also infects tomato roots -- second cross-crop disease link found this session.

  8. RHS explicitly advises against slug pellets (even organic) due to wildlife harm, and cites RHS's own controlled trial finding no damage reduction from physical barriers (copper tape, bark mulch, eggshell, grit, wool) -- while also noting some other studies have shown copper barriers to repel slugs, a preserved disagreement rather than a silently resolved one. Details Nemaslug (Phasmarhabditis hermaphrodita) biological control including application temperature range and its lack of effect on snails specifically.

  9. Mirrors FAO Ecocrop. Fetched and parsed directly for the numeric soil pH range.

16 independent sources are cited for this crop. Where they disagree - soil pH is the clearest case - every figure is preserved rather than averaged into false precision.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • Chitting maincrop varieties. Chitting helps early potatoes crop faster, but the RHS notes there's no real advantage for maincrop varieties given their longer growing season anyway.
  • Reacting slowly to blight. Once blight appears, act quickly — affected potatoes won't be suitable for storing, and delaying only spreads the damage further.
  • Leaving tubers exposed to light. Skipping earthing up entirely risks green, frost-exposed shoots and tubers, even though the RHS confirms you'll still get a reasonable crop without it.

Diseases

Common scab
cosmetic_to_moderate

Streptomyces spp.

Raised or sunken scabby patches on tuber/root skin

Mainly cosmetic/commercial impact at light levels; RHS: "most serious on potatoes."

Powdery scab
cosmetic_to_severe

Spongospora subterranea

Raised or sunken scabby patches on tuber/root skin

Can cause major tuber distortion in severe cases.

Black scurf and stem canker
moderate

Rhizoctonia solani

Black patches on tuber skins rub off and do not affect eating quality, but stem canker below ground can kill sprout tips and delay or thin emergence.

Blackleg
high

Pectobacterium atrosepticum

Stems are stunted and pale with yellow leaves, blackened and rotted at ground level; tuber flesh may be grey or brown and rotten from the stolon end. No chemical controls are available to gardeners.

Potato compound leaf with dark late blight lesions and pale margins — Mary Ann Hansen, Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University, CC BY 3.0 US
Mary Ann Hansen, Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University, CC BY 3.0 US

Phytophthora infestans

Rapidly spreading watery rot with pale leaf-edge sporulation (late blight pattern)

The most serious and damaging disease of potatoes (RHS). The same pathogen causes tomato blight, so the two crops share the risk and should never follow one another in a rotation.

Cucumber mosaic virus

Cucumber mosaic virus (CMV)

UC IPM names potatoes among CMV hosts. The RHS page did not list potato.

Pests

Potato cyst nematodes (golden/yellow cyst nematode and white cyst nematode)
severe_if_established

Globodera rostochiensis; Globodera pallida

RHS: "a widespread problem of potatoes and tomatoes especially in allotments and gardens where the host plants have been grown frequently." Difficult to eradicate once established; primary defence is prevention via…

Slugs
moderate_maincrop_only

Gastropoda (slugs, various spp.)

Reused existing Slugs pest entity. RHS (Slugs and Snails page): "keeled slugs stay mostly underground and can sometimes be found tunneling holes in potatoes and other tubers"; first/second earlies are usually…

Wireworms
moderate

Elateridae (click beetle larvae, various spp.)

Wireworms usually tunnel straight through a tuber without leaving a cavity, which distinguishes their damage from the larger hollows made by slugs.

Snails
moderate

Gastropoda (snails, various spp.)

Recorded alongside slugs; maincrop potatoes left in the ground longest are the most exposed.

Nutrient Issues

Potassium (K)

deficiency

Marginal necrosis/scorch, older leaves (potassium-pattern)

Correction

Long term, mulch with organic matter such as garden compost. Short term, apply a potassium-rich fertiliser according to the label: the RHS names Vitax Organic Potato & Vegetable Fertiliser among suitable products, alongside comfrey pellets and fish, blood and bone. Take care not to overapply -- excess potassium reduces magnesium uptake and can bring on magnesium deficiency instead. Potassium matters most while tubers are bulking.

Frequently Asked Questions

What month do you plant potatoes in the UK?

Most UK potatoes are planted in March and April. First earlies usually start from late March, second earlies from late March to April, and maincrop potatoes in April.

When should I plant first early potatoes?

Plant first early potatoes from late March to April once the soil is workable and frost risk is easing. In cold areas, wait until April rather than planting into cold, wet ground.

When should I plant second early potatoes?

Plant second early potatoes from late March through April. They usually harvest in July or August and work well as a follow-on crop after first earlies.

When should I plant maincrop potatoes?

Plant maincrop potatoes in April. They need a longer season than early potatoes and are usually harvested from August to October.

When do you plant Charlotte potatoes?

Plant Charlotte potatoes from March to April after chitting them in February or March. They are commonly grown as second early potatoes and harvested in July or August.

When do you plant Maris Piper potatoes?

Plant Maris Piper potatoes in April. They are usually grown as a maincrop variety, harvested from late summer into autumn once the foliage dies back.

Can I plant potatoes in July?

Yes, July planting is mainly used for Christmas potatoes in bags or containers. Use suitable late seed potatoes and protect plants as autumn weather turns colder.

When are potato plants ready to harvest?

Early potatoes are often ready once plants flower or begin to yellow. Maincrop potatoes are usually ready after the foliage dies back, harvesting from August to October.

Can potatoes be grown in bags?

Yes. First earlies and Christmas potatoes are especially useful in bags because containers warm quickly, fit small spaces and make harvesting easier.

How deep do you plant seed potatoes?

Plant seed potatoes 10–15cm deep. Deeper planting in loose, well-prepared soil encourages more tuber development along the buried stem.

Do I need to chit seed potatoes?

Not essential, but chitting gives plants a 2–3 week head start. It’s most beneficial for first and second earlies where the growing season is short.

Why are my potato leaves turning yellow?

In maincrop varieties, yellowing foliage from late summer is normal and signals that tubers are maturing. Earlier yellowing may indicate blight, nutrient deficiency, or waterlogging.

Plan next season before the problems start

Most of the advice on this page comes down to timing and spacing — sowing at the right moment, rotating beds, and giving plants enough airflow. The UK Garden Planner lays your plot out month by month so those decisions are already made before the season starts.

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SoilCommander Editorial Team — under the direction of Nitin Sharma, Co-Founder

Every growing guide is checked against RHS, USDA Cooperative Extension, and other named horticultural authorities before publishing.

How this guide is put together

The growing data on this page — sowing windows, pests, diseases, soil and site requirements — comes from named horticultural sources, listed in References below, checked against RHS and Met Office guidance. An automated pipeline assembles that verified data into the page you're reading: it selects which facts to lead with and builds the surrounding prose and layout. It does not invent a date, a source or a number — where a verified value for a field isn't available, the page leaves it out rather than guessing. A person reviews and publishes each page; nothing goes live unverified.

Vegetable Growing Guides UK

Last verified 2026-09-02

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