How to Grow Onions UK

On this page
  1. Onion (Allium cepa)
  2. Watch: Growing Onions at Home
  3. Regional Planting Calendar
  4. Quick Facts
  5. At a Glance
  6. Soil & Growing Conditions
  7. Growth Stages
  8. Harvest & Storage
  9. Diseases
  10. Pests
  11. Companion Planting
  12. Onions, Set to Store
  13. Plan your Onions planting
  14. Growing Onion in another region
  15. References
  16. Frequently Asked Questions

In the UK, onions are sown mid January to late March, planted out early March to mid April, and are ready to harvest 85–120 days after sowing.

Timing is the decision that matters most in the UK: there are 4 separate regional planting out windows, ranging from early March in Southern England to early April in Scotland.

The short answer

Sow
Mid January to late March
Plant out
Early March to mid April
Ready in
85–120 days
Site
6+ hours of sun, soil pH 6.2–6.5
Biggest risk
Allium white rot

Core growing advice on this page is checked against named horticultural sources — see References.

Onion (Allium cepa)

A swelling onion bulb at the soil surface with green tubular leaves, growing in a sunny garden bed. Photo: Kolforn, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons.

18 sources cited · Verified

Watch: Growing Onions at Home

A quick SoilCommander video on growing onions at home in the UK — sets versus seed, planting depth, feeding, and how to harvest and store for the best results.

Regional Planting Calendar

Region Sow Plant out
Southern England mid January to late March early March to mid April
Midlands derived late January to late March mid March to mid April
Northern England derived early February to early April late March to late April
Scotland derived mid February to mid April early April to late April

Rows marked derived are interpolated between regions our sources do state, because no source we consulted gives a figure for that region specifically. They are deliberately wider to reflect that uncertainty.

Southern England - detail & sources

Sow onion seed in modules under cover from mid-winter, or outdoors from early spring once the soil is workable; plant heat-treated spring sets in early to mid-spring (RHS's "early to mid-spring" window). Southern England has the UK's earliest soil-warming and last frosts (Met Office), so the earliest starts apply here. Overwintering "Japanese" sets can instead be planted in Sept–Oct for a June–July harvest.

Midlands - detail & sources

DERIVED from the RHS early-to-mid-spring window, shifted about a week later than southern England because the Midlands warm and pass the last frost slightly later (Met Office south-to-north gradient). Seed can still be started under cover in late winter. Overwintering "Japanese" sets planted Sept–Oct crop the following June–July.

Northern England - detail & sources

DERIVED: about two weeks later than southern England for the earliest outdoor sowing and set-planting, reflecting the Met Office south-to-north warming gradient. Start seed under cover to gain time. Autumn overwintering sets are best planted at the earlier end (late Sept) so they establish before winter.

Scotland - detail & sources

DERIVED: the latest UK start — sow outdoors and plant sets from about April, as Scotland is slowest to warm and its last frosts are latest (Met Office). Starting seed indoors in modules is especially useful here. Overwintering sets are riskier and, where tried, should go in early (late Sept) in a sheltered spot.

A page from the UK Vegetable Garden Planner PDF: the crop rotation planner, with a planning grid and four-bed rotation tips

Plan your onions — and the rest of the plot

This page covers onions. For every crop's sowing months on one chart, use the free UK vegetable planting calendar, and browse the UK vegetable growing guides for what else to grow alongside it. When you want the whole season on paper, the UK Vegetable Garden Planner is a printable PDF:

  • Twelve month-by-month sowing and harvest spreads
  • Raised bed, allotment and container layout pages for your own plot
  • A four-year crop rotation planner
  • Seed inventory, sowing log and harvest tracker
See inside the UK Vegetable Garden Planner →

80 printable pages · instant PDF download · reprint every season

Quick Facts

Factor Value
Soil pH 6.2 - 6.5
Sunlight 6-6 hours direct sun
Germination temp 4.4°C
Optimal growing temp 12-25°C
Time to harvest 85-120 days
Soil texture Clemson: "fertile, well-drained, loamy soil with plenty of organic matter". RHS: improve with "a bucketful of homemade garden compost or well-rotted manure per square metre/yard".
Drainage Free-draining. RHS: "A warm, sunny spot in well-drained soil is ideal for growing onions". Clemson: grown in full sun for best results.
Lifecycle Biennial grown as an annual: the storage bulb is harvested in the first season. Plants flower and set seed only in a second year after cold exposure — flowering (bolting) in the first year is a defect triggered by cold or stress, not a normal part of bulb production.

At a Glance

Allium cepa Onion Allium white rot Fusarium basal rot Leek rust Onion downy mildew Onion neck rot Leek moth Allium leaf miner Stem and bulb nematode Onion fly DISEASES PESTS

Soil & Growing Conditions

A field of onion plants growing in rows with blue-green tubular foliage — “Onion field in Imaizumi, Shiroishi” by Pekachu is licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0. Source: Wikimedia Commons
“Onion field in Imaizumi, Shiroishi” by Pekachu is licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0. Source: Wikimedia Commons.

Water: RHS: water during "prolonged dry spells" but "stop watering once the bulbs have swollen in mid-summer". Clemson: "During the growing season make sure onions have plenty of moisture, especially after bulbs begin enlarging".

Soil pH range

6.2 6.5

Span reflects genuine variation between the cited authorities, not a single agreed figure.

Growth Stages

Stage BBCH Notes
Planting & Establishment 0 Onions are usually started from heat-treated sets (small immature bulbs) or from seed. PLANTING DEPTH & SPACING: push sets in 2cm (¾in) deep — tip just showing — spacing them 5–15cm (2–6in) apart in rows 20–30cm (8–12in) apart, wider spacing giving larger bulbs (RHS). Sow seed 1.3cm (½in) deep, either indoors in modules from mid-winter to early spring or outdoors in rows 20–30cm apart in early–mid spring, thinning outdoor seedlings first to 5cm then to 10cm (4in). TIMING: plant spring sets in early to mid-spring once the soil is workable; plant overwintering "Japanese" sets in autumn (Sept–Oct) for a June–July crop, as they are less prone to cold-induced bolting. Choose a sunny, open site on fertile, free-draining soil improved with a bucketful of garden compost or well-rotted manure per square metre. Firm the soil; birds often tug newly planted sets out by the wispy tops, so re-firm any that lift.
Leaf (Vegetative) Growth 3 The plant builds a fan of upright, hollow blue-green leaves. Because bulb size is set by how many leaves form before bulbing begins, this stage decides the final harvest — the more strong leaves, the bigger the bulb. Keep the bed scrupulously weed-free by hand or careful hoeing: onions are shallow-rooted, sparse-leaved and compete very poorly, and disturbed roots check growth. Water during prolonged dry spells, especially in the early stages of growth. Feed only if the soil is poor — a nitrogen-rich feed helps autumn-planted onions in late winter. Do not mound soil or mulch over the necks, which encourages rots.
Bulb Development (Bulbing) 7 Once summer days pass the daylength threshold (long-day UK cultivars need roughly 14–16 hours), the leaf-bases swell into the bulb through early to mid-summer. Ease off watering as the bulbs enlarge and STOP watering altogether once the bulbs have swollen in mid-summer, so the skins firm and the onions store well; stop feeding at the same point. Keep weeding lightly. Avoid the old practice of bending the tops over — it does not improve ripening and can let rots into the neck.
Ripening, Harvest & Curing 8 Maturity shows when the foliage yellows and topples over (RHS) — Clemson gives the same signal as "about three-fourths of the tops have fallen over". On a dry day, carefully lift the bulbs with a fork, taking care not to bruise them. Cure (dry) them for about two weeks laid out in the sun or in a warm, well-ventilated shed until the skins are papery and the necks fully dry. Store cured onions in net bags or trays in a single layer somewhere light, cool, dry and airy — roughly 7°C and 50–60% humidity. Spring-planted onions keep well into the following spring; use thicker-necked or autumn-planted bulbs first, as they do not store as long. Days from planting to harvest are typically 85–120.

Harvest & Storage

A tray of freshly harvested red and brown onions drying after lifting — “Common onion harvested at Goodnestone Park, Kent, England” by Acabashi is licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0. Source: Wikimedia Commons
“Common onion harvested at Goodnestone Park, Kent, England” by Acabashi is licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0. Source: Wikimedia Commons.

When to pick: Both sources use foliage collapse as the trigger, at slightly different thresholds. RHS: "Yellowing and toppling of the foliage is a sign that the crop is reaching maturity". Clemson: harvest when "about three-fourths of the tops have fallen over".

Storage

RHS: store in "Net bags or trays in a single layer" in "a light, cool, dry and well-ventilated place"; autumn-planted onions keep "until early winter" and spring-planted "well into the following spring". Clemson gives curing and storage conditions of "between 45 °F and 55 °F, and 50 to 60 percent humidity", and notes short-day varieties "do not store well".

Diseases

Allium white rot
severe

Stromatinia cepivora (syn. Sclerotium cepivorum)

RHS: "Onions, garlic, leeks and other alliums".

Fusarium basal rot
high_once_symptomatic

Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. cepae (also Fusarium proliferatum)

UC IPM: affects "Onion, garlic, and other Allium crops such as leek".

Leek rust
cosmetic_to_moderate

Puccinia porri (syn. Puccinia allii)

RHS: "Leeks, garlic, onions, chives, and other Allium species".

Onion downy mildew
moderate_to_severe

Peronospora destructor

RHS: "Onions, salad onions, shallots, some perennial onions including chives".

Onion neck rot
severe_in_storage

Botrytis allii

RHS: affects "Onions and shallots (occasionally garlic)".

Pests

Leek moth
moderate

Acrolepiopsis assectella

RHS: affects "Leek, onion, shallot, garlic".

Allium leaf miner
high

Phytomyza gymnostoma

RHS: affects "Leeks, onion, chives, shallot and garlic".

Stem and bulb nematode
high_where_present

Ditylenchus dipsaci

RHS names onions among affected vegetables; Allium family members "swell and distort (onion blout)".

Onion fly
high_at_seedling_stage

Delia antiqua

RHS onion fly page: affects "Onion, shallots, and leeks".

Companion Planting

pest deterrent

Daucus carota

Mutual scent-masking between the two crops. Garden Organic: "growing onions between the rows of carrots" may "mask the smell of the carrots" and so reduce carrot fly attack, while the carrots may in turn mask the onions from onion fly (Psila rosae and Delia antiqua respectively).

avoid shared disease

Allium ampeloprasum var. porrum

Both crops are documented hosts of Allium white rot. These pathogens persist in soil for many years -- RHS gives up to 20 years for club root resting spores, at least 15 years for allium white rot sclerotia, and advises a five-year gap before replanting onions or shallots after downy mildew -- so…

avoid shared disease

Allium cepa Aggregatum Group

Both crops are documented hosts of Allium white rot and Onion downy mildew. These pathogens persist in soil for many years -- RHS gives up to 20 years for club root resting spores, at least 15 years for allium white rot sclerotia, and advises a five-year gap before replanting onions or shallots…

avoid shared disease

Allium sativum

Both crops are documented hosts of Allium white rot and Onion downy mildew. These pathogens persist in soil for many years -- RHS gives up to 20 years for club root resting spores, at least 15 years for allium white rot sclerotia, and advises a five-year gap before replanting onions or shallots…

avoid shared disease

Allium fistulosum

Both crops are documented hosts of Onion downy mildew. These pathogens persist in soil for many years -- RHS gives up to 20 years for club root resting spores, at least 15 years for allium white rot sclerotia, and advises a five-year gap before replanting onions or shallots after downy mildew --…

avoid shared disease

Allium ampeloprasum var. ampeloprasum

Sclerotia of the white rot fungus persist in soil for many years and germinate in response to root exudates from any allium, so the ground stays infective long after the crop is gone. Do not follow one allium with another on affected ground.

Plan your Onions planting

When to sow and plant Onions depends on your own frost dates. Check the UK vegetable planting calendar, or the month-by-month guides that cover Onions: January, February, March, April, June, July, August, September, October, December. To work out where it fits in your beds, sketch your plot in the free Garden Layout Planner.

Growing Onion in another region

Sowing dates, frost timing and local advice differ by country. Use the guide for where you garden.

References

  1. Qualitative only: southern/coastal last air frost often before end of April; further north well into May, in a few places into June. No numeric per-region frost dates published here.

  2. US extension source: sow 1/4-1/2 in deep in rows 8-16 in apart, with seeds, sets or transplants 3-4 in apart in the row; green onions harvestable from about 50 days after seeding while bulb onions need 100-120 days; onions bulb under long days and hot weather, and planted too late in spring most will grow leaves and never bulb; green onions can be left at closer spacing and thinned as they are used; leave bulb onions until the tops fall over, then dry 1-2 weeks until skins are papery; store cold at 32-40°F and dry.

18 independent sources are cited for this crop. Where they disagree - soil pH is the clearest case - every figure is preserved rather than averaged into false precision.

Frequently Asked Questions

When should I plant onions out in the UK?

In Southern England, from early March. In Scotland, wait until early April. Treat these as a guide rather than a fixed date — the governing rule is to plant out only once frost risk has passed and temperatures are reliably warm enough.

When do I sow onions?

Sow mid January to mid April, at around 4.4°C for germination.

How long do onions take to grow?

Typically 85–120 days, depending on cultivar and growing conditions.

What soil pH do onions need?

A pH of about 6.2–6.5. That span reflects genuine variation between the authorities we cite rather than a single agreed figure — the References section lists each source's exact range.

What problems affect onions?

Our data links 5 diseases and 4 pests to this crop. See the sections above for each one and how to manage it.

Plan next season before the problems start

Most of the advice on this page comes down to timing and spacing — sowing at the right moment, rotating beds, and giving plants enough airflow. The UK Garden Planner lays your plot out month by month so those decisions are already made before the season starts.

Get the UK Garden Planner →

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SoilCommander Editorial Team — under the direction of Nitin Sharma, Co-Founder

Every growing guide is checked against RHS, USDA Cooperative Extension, and other named horticultural authorities before publishing.

How this guide is put together

The growing data on this page — sowing windows, pests, diseases, soil and site requirements — comes from named horticultural sources, listed in References below, checked against RHS and Met Office guidance. An automated pipeline assembles that verified data into the page you're reading: it selects which facts to lead with and builds the surrounding prose and layout. It does not invent a date, a source or a number — where a verified value for a field isn't available, the page leaves it out rather than guessing. A person reviews and publishes each page; nothing goes live unverified.

Vegetable Growing Guides UK

Last verified 2026-09-02

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