How to Grow Cucumbers

On this page
  1. Cucumber (Cucumis sativus)
  2. Quick Facts
  3. At a Glance
  4. Greenhouse or Outdoors? The Trick to Growing Cucumbers
  5. Growth Stages
  6. Soil & Growing Conditions
  7. Harvest & Storage
  8. The Tomato-Cucumber Myth -- and What Coffee Grounds A...
  9. Diseases
  10. Pests
  11. Plan your Cucumbers planting
  12. Growing Cucumber in another region
  13. Sources
  14. Frequently Asked Questions

Cucumbers are frost-tender and germinate best around 21°C soil temperature; sow once you can provide that warmth, and they're usually ready to harvest 50–70 days later.

The short answer

Ready in
50–70 days
Site
6+ hours of sun, soil pH 6–6.5
Biggest risk
Powdery mildew

Core growing advice on this page is checked against named horticultural sources — see References.

Cucumber (Cucumis sativus)

Ridge cucumbers and yellow flowers growing on the vine in a garden. Photo: Stephen Ausmus, USDA ARS, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons.

9 sources cited · Verified

Quick Facts

A bowl of freshly harvested cucumbers being washed — “Cucumber fruit” by Abike25 is licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0. Source: Wikimedia Commons
“Cucumber fruit” by Abike25 is licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0. Source: Wikimedia Commons.
Factor Value
Soil pH 6 - 6.5
Sunlight 6-6 hours direct sun
Germination temp 21°C
Optimal growing temp 18-32°C
Minimum survivable temp 6°C
Time to harvest 50-70 days
Drainage RHS: a "warm sunny site outdoors" and a "warm, sunny, sheltered spot". Neither source states a soil texture requirement.
Lifecycle Tender warm-season annual. Frost-tender at every stage: sown under cover in warmth, grown on and cropped within a single season, and killed by the first autumn frost. It is never overwintered.
Edible parts fruits
Documented problems 8 diseases, 9 pests

At a Glance

Cucumis sativus Cucumber Powdery mildew Cucumber mosaic virus Bacterial wilt of cucur… Downy mildew (general) Cercospora leaf spot Alternaria leaf blight Anthracnose Gummy stem blight Glasshouse whitefly Glasshouse red spider m… Slugs Snails Melon aphid (cotton aph… Pickleworm Striped cucumber beetle Spotted cucumber beetle Melonworm DISEASES PESTS

Greenhouse or Outdoors? The Trick to Growing Cucumbers

Both work, but they're different plants in practice. Greenhouse (indoor) types are smooth-skinned and all-female, cropping earlier and more heavily under cover; outdoor "ridge" types have tougher, often knobbly skins and are bred to tolerate the cooler, more variable conditions outside. Buy seed labelled for the situation you're growing in -- an indoor variety sown outdoors won't fruit as reliably.

The real trick RHS keeps coming back to is consistency: sow under cover at 21°C, don't plant out until frost risk has fully passed, and then water evenly -- erratic watering, more than almost anything else, is what causes bitter fruit and blossom end rot.

Growth Stages

Stage BBCH Notes
Sowing & Germination 0 Cucumbers are almost always started under cover. SOWING DEPTH: sow one seed 1-2cm (half to three-quarter inch) deep in the centre of a 10cm pot of peat-free compost, placing the seed on its edge (side). TIMING: heated greenhouse mid-February to mid-March; unheated greenhouse or polytunnel in April; outdoor (ridge) types in late April, or sown direct into their final positions in late May/early June (up to three seeds per station, thinned to the strongest). Germinate at about 21°C (70°F) in a heated propagator or a plastic bag on a warm windowsill; seedlings appear in one to two weeks. Never sow cold or early outdoors - the crop is frost-tender.
Planting Out & Training 3 Harden off greenhouse plants before moving to their final spot from late May; plant outdoor (ridge) cucumbers out only from early June once local temperatures are reliably above 12°C (53°F) and all frost has passed. SPACING: set plants 30cm (1ft) apart, or one per container at least 30cm wide and deep. Train the climbing stems up tall bamboo canes, strings or a wigwam, tying them in as they establish. Keep plants warm and sheltered; in the greenhouse aim for 18-25°C and raise humidity in hot spells.
Flowering & Pollination 6 Cucumbers carry separate male and female flowers (the female has a tiny fruit behind the bloom). GREENHOUSE all-female F1 types set seedless fruit without pollination - remove any occasional male flowers, as pollination makes the fruit bitter and misshapen. RIDGE (outdoor) types need their male flowers for insect pollination, so leave them. Pinch out (stop) the growing tips to steer the plant: in the greenhouse pinch the main stem at the roof and side-shoots two leaves beyond a female flower; outdoors pinch the main stem once the plant has seven leaves. Begin high-potash (tomato) feeding as flowering starts.
Fruit Development 7 Fertilised (or, on all-female types, unpollinated) female flowers swell into fruit. This is the thirstiest stage: keep the soil or compost evenly moist, watering at the base to avoid wetting the leaves, and daily in hot weather - erratic watering causes bitter or misshapen fruit. Feed every 10-14 days with a high-potash liquid feed. Support heavy fruits and keep picking so the plant channels energy into new cucumbers rather than seed.
Harvest 8 Pick fruits young, while uniformly green and firm with a slightly rounded tip, before they yellow or swell (over-mature and yellowing cucumbers turn bitter and stop the plant cropping). Sizes at picking: mini types about 8cm (3in), small-fruited about 15cm (6in), full-sized 20-25cm (8-10in). Cut the stem cleanly with a knife or secateurs rather than pulling, and harvest every few days - regular picking keeps more fruit coming, from mid-summer to mid-autumn under glass and over a shorter season outdoors. Typical time from sowing to first harvest is about 50-70 days. Store cut cucumbers cool (about 7-10°C) and humid for around a week.

Soil & Growing Conditions

Rows of young cucumber plants trained up strings in a UK polytunnel — “Cucumber plants, Goodnestone Park, Kent” by HARTLEPOOLMARINA2014 is licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0. Source: Wikimedia Commons
“Cucumber plants, Goodnestone Park, Kent” by HARTLEPOOLMARINA2014 is licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0. Source: Wikimedia Commons.

Water: RHS: water "regularly, especially when fruits are forming" to keep the soil or compost "evenly moist"; may need "watering daily" in hot spells. Clemson: moisten soil "to at least a 6 inch depth" with a "uniform moisture supply".

Soil pH range

6 6.5

Span reflects genuine variation between the cited authorities, not a single agreed figure.

Harvest & Storage

A bowl of freshly harvested cucumbers being washed — “Cucumber fruit” by Abike25 is licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0. Source: Wikimedia Commons
“Cucumber fruit” by Abike25 is licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0. Source: Wikimedia Commons.

When to pick: RHS: pick fruits that are "uniformly green and firm, usually with a slightly rounded tip", avoiding any that are "yellowish, bulbous or soft". Clemson: harvest from "2 inches long up to any size, but before their flesh becomes bitter, seeds harden or skins begin to yellow".

Storage

Clemson: store at "45 to 50 °F and 95% relative humidity" for "about a week". RHS states no storage method.

The Tomato-Cucumber Myth -- and What Coffee Grounds Actually Do

Can tomatoes and cucumbers be planted together? Yes -- checked directly against Ask Extension's own companion-planting guidance, which finds no garden-planting incompatibility between them at all: "You can, but you need to make sure that you leave enough room... so they don't deprive each other of sun, water and nutrients." The "can't be planted together" idea most likely comes from a real but different fact: Purdue University's Vegetable Crops Hotline warns to "avoid stor[ing] cucumbers together with ethylene producing fruit such as ripening tomatoes" once harvested, since cucumbers are unusually ethylene-sensitive and spoil faster near them. That's a fridge rule, not a garden one -- the two plants grow fine side by side.

What do coffee grounds do? Less than the folklore suggests. Washington State University Extension tested this directly: used grounds are close to pH-neutral, not acidic as widely believed, and "fresh grounds are demonstrably phytotoxic to a variety of plants" -- WSU records "reduced seed germination and plant growth" where they've been used raw, and advises against them anywhere you're growing from seed. Composted (at no more than 20% of a compost pile) or used as a thin, covered layer, they're a fine soil amendment; sprinkled straight onto a seed bed, they can do more harm than good.

Diseases

moderate

RHS cucumber guide names powdery mildews among cucumber diseases. The RHS powdery mildews page independently lists "cucurbits (courgettes, marrows and cucumbers)" among affected vegetables.

Cucumber mosaic virus
high

Cucumber mosaic virus (CMV)

RHS: CMV affects "Cucumbers and other cucurbits". The RHS cucumber guide also names cucumber mosaic virus among its diseases.

Bacterial wilt of cucurbits
high

Erwinia tracheiphila

Vines wilt severely then die fast. There is no chemical control once a plant is infected, and the bacterium overwinters inside the cucumber beetles rather than in your soil -- so this is a pest problem presenting as a…

Downy mildew (general)
high

Small yellow areas on the upper leaf surface expanding and browning, with grey mould on the underside directly beneath. Favoured by moist conditions. Resistant varieties work; fungicides only work preventatively.

Cercospora leaf spot
medium

Cercospora beticola

Dark spots with lighter centres and darker margins; centres may drop out and lesions merge into blight. Progresses fastest at 79-90°F, where new leaves can be infected every 7 to 10 days. Overwinters in crop debris and…

Alternaria leaf blight
medium

Alternaria dauci

Small circular tan spots enlarging past 1.5 inches with concentric rings and a bull's-eye appearance, followed by severe leaf drop. Driven by bright sunshine with frequent dew or rain at 60-90°F. Overwinters on plant…

Anthracnose
medium

Colletotrichum spp.

Sunken reddish-brown lesions with yellow halo (anthracnose)

Leaf spots beginning yellowish or water-soaked, turning brown to black with a shot-hole look; black, circular, sunken cankers on the fruit. Needs rainy, cool weather for several days. The fungus overwinters on old…

Gummy stem blight
high

Didymella bryoniae

Brown or tan leaf spots, and stem cankers weeping a brown gummy substance, with vines wilting mid-season. No resistant varieties exist, and it survives on debris year to year -- so clearing debris and rotating to a…

Pests

Glasshouse whitefly adult on a leaf — Sanja565658, CC BY-SA 3.0
Sanja565658, CC BY-SA 3.0
Glasshouse whitefly
moderate

Trialeurodes vaporariorum

RHS cucumber guide lists glasshouse whitefly among cucumber pests.

Two-spotted red spider mite with silk threads, magnified — Gilles San Martin, CC BY-SA 2.0
Gilles San Martin, CC BY-SA 2.0
Glasshouse red spider mite (two-spotted spider mite)
high_under_glass

Tetranychus urticae

RHS cucumber guide lists glasshouse red spider mite among cucumber pests.

Slugs
high_at_seedling_stage

Gastropoda (slugs, various spp.)

RHS cucumber guide lists slugs among cucumber pests.

Snails
moderate

Gastropoda (snails, various spp.)

RHS cucumber guide lists snails among cucumber pests.

Melon aphid (cotton aphid)
medium

Aphis gossypii

Found chiefly on leaf undersides, sucking sap and reducing both quality and quantity of fruit; infested leaves curl downward and may brown and die. Usually arrives once vines start to run. Transmits cucumber mosaic…

Pickleworm
medium

Diaphania nitidalis

Caterpillars tunnel into flowers, buds, stems and fruit, with sawdust-like frass protruding from small holes; damaged fruit often cannot be identified until it is cut open. It cannot survive winter in the Carolinas --…

Striped cucumber beetle
high

Acalymma vittatum

Where it occurs it is a yellow beetle about a fifth of an inch long with three black stripes, feeding on every part of the plant from emergence; the real damage is that it transmits bacterial wilt, which overwinters…

Spotted cucumber beetle
high

Diabrotica undecimpunctata howardi

Where it occurs it begins feeding as soon as plants emerge and either kills them outright or badly slows growth, and the larvae bore into roots and stems; it also transmits bacterial wilt. It cannot overwinter in the…

Melonworm

Diaphania hyalinata

A late-season US pest -- migrates up from Florida each year and cannot overwinter further north, so it is not a UK or Canadian concern and mainly shows in fall-planted crops. Larvae skeletonise the leaves, feeding on…

Plan your Cucumbers planting

Timing for Cucumbers follows soil temperature and frost, not the calendar date. The Global vegetable planting calendar explains the method. To work out where it fits in your beds, sketch your plot in the free Garden Layout Planner.

Growing Cucumber in another region

Sowing dates, frost timing and local advice differ by country. Use the guide for where you garden.

Sources

These 2 sources are specific to this region. The full list of 9 sources behind this guide (Clemson Cooperative Extension, FAO EcoCrop, Global Biodiversity Information Facility (GBIF) and others) is in the references of our UK guide to cucumbers; they describe the plant itself, which is the same wherever it grows.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long do cucumbers take to grow?

Typically 50–70 days, depending on cultivar and growing conditions.

What soil pH do cucumbers need?

A pH of about 6–6.5. That span reflects genuine variation between the authorities we cite rather than a single agreed figure — the References section lists each source's exact range.

What problems affect cucumbers?

Our data links 8 diseases and 9 pests to this crop. See the sections above for each one and how to manage it.

Plan next season before the problems start

This page gives you the thresholds; the planner turns them into your own calendar. It works from what you can observe and measure in your garden rather than from dates written for somebody else’s latitude.

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SoilCommander Editorial Team — under the direction of Nitin Sharma, Co-Founder

Every growing guide is checked against RHS, USDA Cooperative Extension, and other named horticultural authorities before publishing.

How this guide is put together

The growing data on this page — sowing windows, pests, diseases, soil and site requirements — comes from named horticultural sources, listed in References below, checked against international horticultural research and extension sources. An automated pipeline assembles that verified data into the page you're reading: it selects which facts to lead with and builds the surrounding prose and layout. It does not invent a date, a source or a number — where a verified value for a field isn't available, the page leaves it out rather than guessing. A person reviews and publishes each page; nothing goes live unverified.

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Last verified 2026-08-06

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