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How to Grow Brussels Sprouts USA | Soil, pH & Growing Guide

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Brussels sprouts (Brassica oleracea Gemmifera Group)

A row of Brussels sprout plants with sprouts visible up the stems. Photo: Schlaghecken Josef, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons.

9 sources cited · Verified

The short answer

Plant out
Early September to late September
Ready in
80–100 days
Site
6+ hours of sun, soil pH 6.5–7
Biggest risk
Club root

In the UK, brussels sprouts planted out early September to late September, and are ready to harvest 80–100 days after sowing.

Brussels sprouts (Brassica oleracea Gemmifera Group) — biennial (requires two growing seasons, but treated as an annual).

Timing is the decision that matters most in the USA: there are 7 separate regional planting out windows, ranging from mid June in Intermountain West to early September in Deep South & Gulf Coast.

Core growing advice on this page is checked against named horticultural and university-extension sources — see References.

Regional Planting Calendar

Region Plant out
Deep South & Gulf Coast derived early September to late September
Pacific Northwest derived early August to late August
Mid-Atlantic & Upper South derived mid July to early August
Northeast & New England derived late July to early August
Lower Midwest & Ohio Valley derived early July to late July
N. Plains & Upper Midwest derived late June to mid July
Intermountain West derived mid June to early July

Rows marked derived are interpolated between regions our sources do state, because no source we consulted gives a figure for that region specifically. They are deliberately wider to reflect that uncertainty.

Deep South & Gulf Coast - detail & sources

DERIVED from this region's own frost normal, not quoted for the region. Plant in early summer for maturity in the fall; cultivars need 90-110 days, and sprouts taste better after a few frosts, which concentrate the sugars. The window is therefore worked BACK from your first fall frost, not forward from the last spring one. Applied to a mean last frost of 2 February (NOAA NCEI 1991-2020 for the USA; Environment and Climate Change Canada normals for Canada), that gives 2 September to 22 September. Your own local frost date is what matters — a region spans a range, and this figure comes from one representative station within it.

Pacific Northwest - detail & sources

DERIVED from this region's own frost normal, not quoted for the region. Plant in early summer for maturity in the fall; cultivars need 90-110 days, and sprouts taste better after a few frosts, which concentrate the sugars. The window is therefore worked BACK from your first fall frost, not forward from the last spring one. Applied to a mean last frost of 8 March (NOAA NCEI 1991-2020 for the USA; Environment and Climate Change Canada normals for Canada), that gives 3 August to 23 August. Your own local frost date is what matters — a region spans a range, and this figure comes from one representative station within it.

Mid-Atlantic & Upper South - detail & sources

DERIVED from this region's own frost normal, not quoted for the region. Plant in early summer for maturity in the fall; cultivars need 90-110 days, and sprouts taste better after a few frosts, which concentrate the sugars. The window is therefore worked BACK from your first fall frost, not forward from the last spring one. Applied to a mean last frost of 4 April (NOAA NCEI 1991-2020 for the USA; Environment and Climate Change Canada normals for Canada), that gives 17 July to 6 August. Your own local frost date is what matters — a region spans a range, and this figure comes from one representative station within it.

Northeast & New England - detail & sources

DERIVED from this region's own frost normal, not quoted for the region. Plant in early summer for maturity in the fall; cultivars need 90-110 days, and sprouts taste better after a few frosts, which concentrate the sugars. The window is therefore worked BACK from your first fall frost, not forward from the last spring one. Applied to a mean last frost of 6 April (NOAA NCEI 1991-2020 for the USA; Environment and Climate Change Canada normals for Canada), that gives 21 July to 10 August. Your own local frost date is what matters — a region spans a range, and this figure comes from one representative station within it.

Lower Midwest & Ohio Valley - detail & sources

DERIVED from this region's own frost normal, not quoted for the region. Plant in early summer for maturity in the fall; cultivars need 90-110 days, and sprouts taste better after a few frosts, which concentrate the sugars. The window is therefore worked BACK from your first fall frost, not forward from the last spring one. Applied to a mean last frost of 16 April (NOAA NCEI 1991-2020 for the USA; Environment and Climate Change Canada normals for Canada), that gives 9 July to 29 July. Your own local frost date is what matters — a region spans a range, and this figure comes from one representative station within it.

N. Plains & Upper Midwest - detail & sources

DERIVED from this region's own frost normal, not quoted for the region. Plant in early summer for maturity in the fall; cultivars need 90-110 days, and sprouts taste better after a few frosts, which concentrate the sugars. The window is therefore worked BACK from your first fall frost, not forward from the last spring one. Applied to a mean last frost of 25 April (NOAA NCEI 1991-2020 for the USA; Environment and Climate Change Canada normals for Canada), that gives 22 June to 12 July. Your own local frost date is what matters — a region spans a range, and this figure comes from one representative station within it.

Intermountain West - detail & sources

DERIVED from this region's own frost normal, not quoted for the region. Plant in early summer for maturity in the fall; cultivars need 90-110 days, and sprouts taste better after a few frosts, which concentrate the sugars. The window is therefore worked BACK from your first fall frost, not forward from the last spring one. Applied to a mean last frost of 6 May (NOAA NCEI 1991-2020 for the USA; Environment and Climate Change Canada normals for Canada), that gives 18 June to 8 July. Your own local frost date is what matters — a region spans a range, and this figure comes from one representative station within it.

Quick Facts

Factor Value
Soil pH 6.5 - 7
Sunlight 6-10 hours direct sun
Optimal growing temp 12-20C
Minimum survivable temp -5C
Time to harvest 80-100 days
Soil texture RHS: "fertile, well-drained, firm soil". Firmness matters because the plants are top-heavy.
Drainage RHS: well-drained; a "sunny location". RHS advises raising the pH to at least 6.5 to deter club root; no upper bound is stated.
Lifecycle biennial (requires two growing seasons, but treated as an annual)
Edible parts sprouts, young leaves (sprout tops)

At a Glance

Brassica oleracea Gemmi… Brussels sprouts Club root Damping-off (seedling c… Alternaria leaf blight Downy mildew (general) Black rot of brassicas Cabbage root fly (US: c… Cabbage caterpillars Mealy cabbage aphid Cabbage webworm Cabbage looper Cross-striped cabbagewo… Diamondback moth caterp… Imported cabbageworm Harlequin bug DISEASES PESTS

Soil & Growing Conditions

Young Brussels sprouts on the stem covered in frost — "Rosenkohl bei minus 5°C" by Schlaghecken Josef is licensed under CC BY 4.0. Source: Wikimedia Commons
Rosenkohl bei minus 5°C” by Schlaghecken Josef is licensed under CC BY 4.0. Source: Wikimedia Commons.

Water: RHS: "Water young plants regularly, never letting the soil dry out"; apply a nitrogen-rich fertiliser in June or July on poor soil. Univ. of Maryland: "Keep watered during the heat of summer; needs ample soil moisture".

Soil pH range

6.5 7

Span reflects genuine variation between the cited authorities, not a single agreed figure.

Growth Stages

Stage BBCH Notes
Germination & seedling 0 Sprouts are raised from seed sown about 1–2cm deep in spring, usually in a seedbed or modules rather than sown where they crop (RHS: sow March–April). Seed germinates in about a week in warm soil; grow plants on to sturdy young transplants of roughly 10–15cm with several true leaves before moving them. Harden off module-raised plants first.
Vegetative growth (transplanting & leafing) 3 Transplant from late spring into very firm, fertile soil, spacing plants about 60cm apart each way (RHS) — roughly 24–30in (Univ. of Maryland) — to give these big plants room. Firm the soil hard around each plant: loose ground produces loose, 'blown' sprouts. Water in well, keep weed-free, feed for strong leafy growth, and net against pigeons and cabbage white caterpillars.
Sprout formation (buttoning up the stem) 4 Small sprouts begin to form in the leaf axils and swell up the stem from the base towards the top. Keep plants firmly anchored and evenly watered; earth up the stems or stake plants on windy sites to stop them rocking, which loosens the sprouts. Removing a few yellowing lower leaves improves airflow.
Harvest (bottom-up over winter) 8 Start picking from the bottom of the stem upwards once the lowest sprouts are firm, tightly closed and about walnut-sized (RHS), usually from autumn onward. Flavour improves after the first frosts (Univ. of Maryland). Snap or cut sprouts a few at a time; a single stem crops over many weeks, and whole stems can also be cut for storage.

Harvest & Storage

Firm, tightly closed Brussels sprouts packed along cut stalks, ready to harvest — "Brussels sprouts on the stalk closeup" by Jeffery Martin is licensed under CC0. Source: Wikimedia Commons
Brussels sprouts on the stalk closeup” by Jeffery Martin is licensed under CC0. Source: Wikimedia Commons.

When to pick: RHS: pick sprouts at the "size of a walnut, firm and still tightly closed" and "bright green", before "sprouts start to open or turn yellow". Univ. of Maryland: harvest when "hard, compact, deep green, and about 1 to 1½ inches in diameter", adding "Harvest sprouts after frosty weather for best flavor".

Storage

Univ. of Maryland: "Very cold (32 degrees F), moist (95% RH) conditions. For best flavor, refrigerator storage should not exceed a day or two, but they will keep 3 to 5 weeks. Can be blanched and frozen to keep up to one year". RHS: stand the stem in water for a few days, or hang it in a cool, frost-free garage or shed.

Diseases

Plasmodiophora brassicae

RHS names Brussels sprouts explicitly among club root hosts.

Damping-off (seedling collapse)
medium

Rhizoctonia solani

Damping-off (seedling collapse at soil line); Wilting with chlorotic, dropping leaves

Seed that rots before emergence, or seedlings collapsing at the soil line. A transplant-raising problem more than a bed problem: use fresh commercial mix, containers cleaned with a 10% bleach solution, and…

Alternaria leaf blight
medium

Alternaria dauci

Brown circular spots with concentric target rings, and small dark stem lesions on seedlings. Active between 60 and 90F in moist conditions and overwinters on crop residue, so clearing the bed at season end plus a…

Downy mildew (general)
medium

Grey mould on the underside of the leaf with yellowing, later browning, on the upper surface directly above it. A moisture problem rather than a heat one: space widely so leaves dry, and water at soil level.

Black rot of brassicas
high

Xanthomonas campestris pv. campestris

Yellow V-shaped lesions cutting in from the leaf margin, with the point of the V aimed at a vein; the veins blacken and the rot can reach the stem. Seed- and transplant-borne, so it usually arrives on bought plants…

Pests

Cabbage root fly (US: cabbage maggot)

Delia radicum

RHS names Brussels sprout explicitly; maggots occasionally tunnel into individual sprout buttons.

Cabbage caterpillars

Pieris brassicae; Pieris rapae; Pieris napi; Mamestra brassicae; Plutella xylostella

RHS: affects "All edible brassicas, including cabbage, broccoli and sprouts".

Mealy cabbage aphid
medium

Brevicoryne brassicae

Piercing, sucking feeding causing yellowing, stunted growth and wrinkled or curled leaves, with sooty mould growing on the honeydew. Clemson notes they are commoner in autumn as the weather cools -- the opposite of…

Cabbage webworm
medium

Hellula rogatalis

Small, tan and brown striped with a dark head. It webs itself into the new growth for protection and attacks the buds and growing point, which causes lateral budding and can ruin a plant that would otherwise have made…

Cabbage looper
high

Trichoplusia ni

Up to 1.5 inches, moving in the distinctive looping gait, and it makes far bigger holes than diamondback moth -- Clemson puts one looper at roughly the damage of five diamondback larvae, so finding one matters more.…

Cross-striped cabbageworm
medium

Evergestis rimosalis

Alternating black and white stripes across the back with a yellow stripe along the side, reaching about three-quarters of an inch. It hatches in masses and can rapidly skeletonise a plant, then drops to pupate just…

Diamondback moth caterpillar
high

Plutella xylostella

Clemson calls it "the most serious insect pest of brassica crops in South Carolina" despite being small, up to half an inch. The tell is a window-pane effect: the caterpillar eats the underside and leaves the upper…

Imported cabbageworm
medium

Pieris rapae

About an inch long and recognisable by its fuzzy appearance; Clemson rates it at about two-thirds the damage of a looper. It pupates in a chrysalis on the host plant, so it can be removed with the plant.

Harlequin bug
medium

Murgantia histrionica

A shield bug with a striking reddish-orange and black pattern; the eggs look like tiny black-and-white striped barrels laid in rows, which makes them easy to find and destroy. Piercing-sucking feeding leaves distinct…

Companion Planting

Turnip
avoid shared disease

Brassica rapa Rapifera Group

Both crops are documented hosts of Club root. These pathogens persist in soil for many years -- RHS gives up to 20 years for club root resting spores, at least 15 years for allium white rot sclerotia, and advises a five-year gap before replanting onions or shallots after downy mildew -- so the two…

Swede
avoid shared disease

Brassica napus Napobrassica Group

Both crops are documented hosts of Club root. These pathogens persist in soil for many years -- RHS gives up to 20 years for club root resting spores, at least 15 years for allium white rot sclerotia, and advises a five-year gap before replanting onions or shallots after downy mildew -- so the two…

avoid shared disease

Brassica oleracea Capitata Group

Both crops are documented hosts of Club root. These pathogens persist in soil for many years -- RHS gives up to 20 years for club root resting spores, at least 15 years for allium white rot sclerotia, and advises a five-year gap before replanting onions or shallots after downy mildew -- so the two…

Radish
avoid shared disease

Raphanus sativus

Both crops are documented hosts of Club root. These pathogens persist in soil for many years -- RHS gives up to 20 years for club root resting spores, at least 15 years for allium white rot sclerotia, and advises a five-year gap before replanting onions or shallots after downy mildew -- so the two…

avoid shared disease

Brassica oleracea Acephala Group

Plasmodiophora brassicae produces resting spores that contaminate the soil and remain viable for many years, so any brassica following an infected crop is re-infected from the ground itself. Keep every brassica -- including radish, swede and turnip, which gardeners often forget are brassicas --…

avoid shared disease

Brassica oleracea Italica Group

Plasmodiophora brassicae produces resting spores that contaminate the soil and remain viable for many years, so any brassica following an infected crop is re-infected from the ground itself. Keep every brassica -- including radish, swede and turnip, which gardeners often forget are brassicas --…

avoid shared disease

Brassica oleracea Botrytis Group

Plasmodiophora brassicae produces resting spores that contaminate the soil and remain viable for many years, so any brassica following an infected crop is re-infected from the ground itself. Keep every brassica -- including radish, swede and turnip, which gardeners often forget are brassicas --…

The Most Important Growing Tip: Firm Soil

Loose, soft soil is the number one reason Brussels sprouts fail in the UK. The plants need firm anchorage to produce tight, round sprouts rather than loose, leafy ones. Firm the soil thoroughly with your foot before planting, then plant firmly -- tug the plant gently afterwards, and if it comes out easily, plant it again more firmly. The RHS specifically highlights firm planting as essential to preventing loose, "blown" sprouts.

Recommended Varieties

  • Peer Gynt — a classic early variety with tight, round sprouts from October; a compact, reliable choice across all UK regions.
  • Trafalgar F1 — an AGM winner with heavy yields of firm, well-flavoured sprouts from November to January, and good disease resistance.
  • Revenge F1 — a late-season variety harvesting January-March; very hardy, with excellent flavour after frost, useful for filling the "hungry gap".
  • Evesham Special — a traditional tall variety producing large numbers of small, sweet sprouts from November to January.

References

  1. Tier 1. Black rot shows yellow V-shaped lesions with the point of the V directed toward a vein, favoured by high temperature and humidity, surviving on debris up to two years when buried plus on wild mustard and contaminated seed; avoid cole crops where it occurred within two to three years and do not handle wet plants. Downy mildew is grey mould on the lower leaf surface with yellowing above. Alternaria leaf spot makes brown circular target spots with concentric rings between 60 and 90F, overwintering on residue, calling for three-year rotation. Pythium damping-off rots seedlings at the soil line.

  2. Tier 1. Diamondback moth is "the most serious insect pest of brassica crops in South Carolina", leaving a window-pane appearance where the upper leaf surface stays intact. Damage is quantified relative to each other: one cabbage looper does roughly the damage of 5 diamondback moth larvae, and imported cabbageworm about two-thirds of a looper. Cross-striped cabbageworm hatches in masses and can rapidly skeletonise a plant, dropping to pupate just under the soil surface. Cabbage webworm damages buds and growing points, causing lateral budding. Cabbage aphids are commoner in cool autumn weather. Flea beetles are most problematic on mustard and turnips, which lack the protective waxy coating.

  3. country=INTL

  4. country=UK

  5. country=UK

  6. country=UK

  7. country=UK

  8. country=USA

  9. Tier 1. Transplants of 4-6 mature leaves take 6-7 weeks to raise; plant in early summer, early June to late July, for maturity in the fall; 12-18 in between plants with rows 2 ft apart; cultivars 90-110 days (Long Island Improved 90, Jade Cross 100, Diablo 110); grows best where temperatures do not exceed 70F and is not seriously damaged by temperatures below freezing; "Brussels sprouts taste better after they have been exposed to a few frosts. The frosts cause the sugars to become more concentrated"; remove the growing point when the lower sprouts begin to form, usually mid-to-late August, for uniform development; harvest at 1 in diameter, firm and compact, working from the bottom of the plant upward; stores 2-6 months at 32F and 95% relative humidity.

9 independent sources are cited for this crop. Where they disagree - soil pH is the clearest case - every figure is preserved rather than averaged into false precision.

Frequently Asked Questions

When should I plant brussels sprouts out in the USA?

In Intermountain West, from mid June. In Deep South & Gulf Coast, wait until early September. Treat these as a guide rather than a fixed date — the governing rule is to plant out only once frost risk has passed and temperatures are reliably warm enough.

How long do brussels sprouts take to grow?

Typically 80–100 days, depending on cultivar and growing conditions.

What soil pH do brussels sprouts need?

A pH of about 6.5–7. That span reflects genuine variation between the authorities we cite rather than a single agreed figure — the References section lists each source's exact range.

What problems affect brussels sprouts?

Our data links 5 diseases and 9 pests to this crop. See the sections above for each one and how to manage it.

Plan next season before the problems start

Almost everything on this page resolves to your own frost dates rather than the calendar — the last spring frost moves by roughly two months between zone 3 and zone 10. The USA Garden Planner works from your zone so the timing is already decided before the season starts.

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Every SoilCommander guide is written and maintained by our editorial team for real US growing conditions, and checked against USDA hardiness and frost-date data and Cooperative Extension growing advice before publication.

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Last verified 2026-07-30

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