How to Grow Elephant Garlic USA

On this page
  1. Elephant Garlic (Allium ampeloprasum var. ampeloprasum)
  2. Soil & Growing Conditions
  3. Growth Stages
  4. Quick Facts
  5. At a Glance
  6. When to plant in the USA
  7. Harvest & Storage
  8. Diseases
  9. Pests
  10. Companion Planting
  11. Elephant Garlic, Clove to Harvest
  12. Plan your Elephant Garlic planting
  13. Growing Elephant Garlic in another region
  14. Sources
  15. Frequently Asked Questions

In the US, elephant garlic is ready to harvest 180–240 days after planting.

Elephant garlic (Allium ampeloprasum var. ampeloprasum) — Herbaceous perennial grown as a biennial-style crop.

Unlike an annual crop, the work here is front-loaded into establishment: get the planting and the site right and the same plants crop for several seasons.

The short answer

Ready in
180–240 days
Site
soil pH 6–6.5
Biggest risk
Allium white rot

Core growing advice on this page is checked against named horticultural sources — see References.

Elephant Garlic (Allium ampeloprasum var. ampeloprasum)

A single giant elephant garlic clove beside a whole regular garlic bulb, showing the size difference. Photo: Lin linao, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons.

14 sources cited · Verified

Soil & Growing Conditions

A bed of elephant garlic plants growing with broad blue-green leek-like leaves — “Elephant garlic growing (Allium ampeloprasum var. ampeloprasum)” by Lin linao is licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0. Source: Wikimedia Commons
“Elephant garlic growing (Allium ampeloprasum var. ampeloprasum)” by Lin linao is licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0. Source: Wikimedia Commons.

Soil pH range

6 6.5

Span reflects genuine variation between the cited authorities, not a single agreed figure.

Growth Stages

Stage BBCH Notes
Planting & Establishment 0 PLANTING DEPTH & SPACING: split the bulb into cloves and plant each one upright (pointed end up) so the tip sits about 2.5cm (1in) below the soil surface; the RHS garlic spacing is 15cm (6in) between cloves in rows 30cm (12in) apart, but because elephant garlic grows so large (up to 1-1.5m tall) many gardeners give it more room, around 20-30cm apart. In light soil, deeper planting can give bigger bulbs, but do not plant deep in heavy soil. Choose a sunny, open site on fertile, free-draining ground; on cold, wet clay grow it in large containers instead. Roots establish before winter.
Leaf Growth 3 Through winter and spring the clove grows into a tall, leek-like plant with broad blue-green leaves. Keep the bed weed-free so the plants are not crowded, and water in prolonged dry spells in spring. Feed only if the soil is poor. In early summer the plant throws up a tall flower stalk (scape) - cut this out as soon as it appears (and eat it, sauteed or roasted) so the plant puts its energy into the bulb rather than flowering.
Bulb Development 7 Through early to mid-summer the base swells into a large bulb that divides into a few very large cloves, sometimes with small hard "cormel" offsets around the outside. Ease off watering as the leaves begin to yellow so the skins firm and the bulb stores well. Keep weeding lightly; no further feeding is needed.
Harvest & Curing 8 Lift the bulbs once the leaves have turned yellow - for autumn-planted elephant garlic this is usually in mid- to late summer, after a long season (roughly 9-10 months from planting). Ease each bulb up gently with a fork rather than pulling, on a dry day. Dry (cure) the bulbs for two to four weeks in a warm, airy place until the skins are papery, then store them somewhere cool and dry at about 41-50°F (5-10°C), where they keep for several months. Save the largest cloves and any cormel offsets to replant the following autumn.

Quick Facts

Factor Value
Soil pH 6 - 6.5
Optimal growing temp 64-75°F (18-24°C)
Minimum survivable temp 23°F (-5°C)
Time to harvest 180-240 days
Drainage Chalk, Clay, Loam, Sand; moist but well-drained or well-drained; avoid heavy clay prone to winter saturation (grow in containers if so)
Lifecycle Herbaceous perennial grown as a biennial-style crop: cloves are planted in autumn, overwinter (they need a cold period), and are harvested the following summer.
Edible parts bulb (cloves)

At a Glance

Allium ampeloprasum var… Elephant Garlic Allium white rot Onion downy mildew Leek moth Onion fly Allium leaf miner Stem and bulb nematode DISEASES PESTS

When to plant in the USA

United States. Elephant garlic is planted in autumn, so it is timed against the approach of winter rather than against the last spring frost — Utah State gives late September to November for its own conditions. The event to plant ahead of is the ground freezing hard, which comes later than the first air frost and is not what a frost normal measures, so use your own local experience of when the soil sets rather than a date taken from elsewhere. Set cloves 2-3 in deep, 3-4 in apart, in rows 6-10 in apart, and mulch after planting where winters are severe. Each clove makes one bulb. Worth knowing before you plan the bed: elephant garlic is not garlic. Utah State notes it is very mild, stores poorly, and is more closely related to leek — it is Allium ampeloprasum, the same species as leek, so it belongs in a leek rotation rather than a garlic one.

Harvest & Storage

Three huge elephant garlic cloves next to a one-euro coin for scale — “Elephant garlic cloves (Ackerknoblauch)” by Uncaught is licensed under Public domain. Source: Wikimedia Commons
“Elephant garlic cloves (Ackerknoblauch)” by Uncaught is licensed under Public domain. Source: Wikimedia Commons.

When to pick: Best planted October; needs a long warm growing season; bulb divides into a small number of very large cloves (occasionally fails to divide, producing a single solo bulb — less likely with early planting)

Storage

RHS (garlic): after lifting, dry (cure) the bulbs for two to four weeks depending on the weather, then store somewhere cool and dry at about 41-50°F (5-10°C). Well-cured elephant garlic keeps for several months; save a few of the largest cloves (and any cormel offsets) to replant in autumn.

Diseases

Allium white rot
severe

Stromatinia cepivora (syn. Sclerotium cepivorum)

Onion downy mildew
moderate_to_severe

Peronospora destructor

Pests

Leek moth
moderate

Acrolepiopsis assectella

RHS: affects "Leek, onion, shallot, garlic". [Allium genus-wide RHS pest pages explicitly name multiple Allium crops including chives/shallot; reused for other Allium species in the graph.]

Onion fly
moderate

Delia antiqua

RHS onion fly page: affects "Onion, shallots, and leeks". [Allium genus-wide RHS pest pages explicitly name multiple Allium crops including chives/shallot; reused for other Allium species in the graph.]

Allium leaf miner
high

Phytomyza gymnostoma

RHS: affects "Leeks, onion, chives, shallot and garlic". [Allium genus-wide RHS pest pages explicitly name multiple Allium crops including chives/shallot; reused for other Allium species in the graph.]

Stem and bulb nematode
high_where_present

Ditylenchus dipsaci

RHS names onions among affected vegetables; Allium family members "swell and distort (onion blout)". [Allium genus-wide RHS pest pages explicitly name multiple Allium crops including chives/shallot; reused for other…

Companion Planting

avoid shared disease

Allium ampeloprasum var. porrum

Sclerotia of the white rot fungus persist in soil for many years and germinate in response to root exudates from any allium, so the ground stays infective long after the crop is gone. Do not follow one allium with another on affected ground.

avoid shared disease

Allium sativum

Sclerotia of the white rot fungus persist in soil for many years and germinate in response to root exudates from any allium, so the ground stays infective long after the crop is gone. Do not follow one allium with another on affected ground.

avoid shared disease

Allium cepa

Sclerotia of the white rot fungus persist in soil for many years and germinate in response to root exudates from any allium, so the ground stays infective long after the crop is gone. Do not follow one allium with another on affected ground.

avoid shared disease

Allium cepa Aggregatum Group

Sclerotia of the white rot fungus persist in soil for many years and germinate in response to root exudates from any allium, so the ground stays infective long after the crop is gone. Do not follow one allium with another on affected ground.

Plan your Elephant Garlic planting

When to sow and plant Elephant Garlic depends on your own frost dates. Check the USA vegetable planting calendar. To work out where it fits in your beds, sketch your plot in the free Garden Layout Planner.

Growing Elephant Garlic in another region

Sowing dates, frost timing and local advice differ by country. Use the guide for where you garden.

Sources

  1. US extension source: plant garlic from late September to November, cloves 2-3 in deep in rows 6-10 in apart with cloves 3-4 in apart in the row; each planted clove produces one bulb of 10-15 cloves; harvest when tops begin to yellow or fall over but before completely dry; cure the whole plant in a shady warm spot 1-2 weeks until skins are papery and roots dry; store at 32-40°F, dry, avoiding freezing. States that elephant garlic is very mild, stores poorly and is more closely related to leek than to garlic.

These 3 sources are specific to this region. The full list of 14 sources behind this guide (FAO EcoCrop, GBIF, NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox and others) is in the references of our UK guide to elephant garlic; they describe the plant itself, which is the same wherever it grows.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does elephant garlic take to grow?

Typically 180–240 days, depending on cultivar and growing conditions.

What soil pH does elephant garlic need?

A pH of about 6–6.5. That span reflects genuine variation between the authorities we cite rather than a single agreed figure — the References section lists each source's exact range.

What problems affect elephant garlic?

Our data links 2 diseases and 4 pests to this crop. See the sections above for each one and how to manage it.

Plan next season before the problems start

Almost everything on this page resolves to your own frost dates rather than the calendar — the last spring frost moves by roughly two months between zone 3 and zone 10. The USA Garden Planner works from your zone so the timing is already decided before the season starts.

Get the USA Garden Planner →

Instant PDF download · Written for US growing conditions

SoilCommander Editorial Team — under the direction of Nitin Sharma, Co-Founder

Every growing guide is checked against RHS, USDA Cooperative Extension, and other named horticultural authorities before publishing.

How this guide is put together

The growing data on this page — sowing windows, pests, diseases, soil and site requirements — comes from named horticultural sources, listed in References below, checked against USDA hardiness-zone and frost-date data, with Cooperative Extension sources cited directly where one exists for a crop. An automated pipeline assembles that verified data into the page you're reading: it selects which facts to lead with and builds the surrounding prose and layout. It does not invent a date, a source or a number — where a verified value for a field isn't available, the page leaves it out rather than guessing. A person reviews and publishes each page; nothing goes live unverified.

Vegetable Growing Guides USA

Last verified 2026-09-02

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