How to Grow Lemon Balms

On this page
  1. Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis)
  2. Growth Stages
  3. Quick Facts
  4. At a Glance
  5. Harvest & Storage
  6. Diseases
  7. Pests
  8. Plan your Lemon Balms planting
  9. What university and government growers’ guides add ab...
  10. Growing Lemon Balm in another region
  11. Sources
  12. Frequently Asked Questions

Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis) — Vigorous, clump-forming perennial herb in the mint family, lemon-scented.

Unlike an annual crop, the work here is front-loaded into establishment: get the planting and the site right and the same plants crop for several seasons.

Core growing advice on this page is checked against named horticultural sources — see References.

Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis)

Young lemon balm plants in nursery trays — “Zitronenmelisse-Melissa officinalis-Pflanzenvermehrung--Josef Schlaghecken” by Schlaghecken Josef is licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0.

2 sources cited · Verified

Growth Stages

A young lemon balm seedling
A young lemon balm seedling. Photo by Krzysztof Ziarnek, Kenraiz, CC BY-SA 4.0.
Stage BBCH Notes
Planting 0 Plant in spring (RHS; USU gives around March specifically), spaced 18in apart, or in a container at least 25cm (10in) wide and deep with peat-free soil-based compost (RHS).
Establishment and spread control 3 Vigorous and mint-like in its tendency to spread and become weedy (RHS; USU). Container growing controls this most reliably; grown in the ground, USU recommends regular harvesting, removing flowers before they set seed, and digging around the plant's edges to check runners. Self-seeds unless deadheaded (RHS).
Harvest 8 RHS: pick the youngest leaves whenever needed through spring and summer, used fresh where possible. USU: harvest about a third of the foliage at monthly intervals before the plant blooms.
Propagation 0 RHS: divide clumps every few years, take softwood cuttings in spring/early summer, or allow self-seeding; named varieties should be propagated vegetatively. USU adds layering as a reliable method -- stake a flexible 6-12in stem under 2-3in of soil, roots form in 1-2 months -- and gives division specifics: root pieces with 3-4 buds, done in late August/September.

Quick Facts

A bushy patch of lemon balm
A bushy patch of lemon balm. Photo by Lazaregagnidze, CC BY-SA 4.0.
Factor Value
Drainage Rich, humus-filled, moist, well-drained; avoid waterlogged sites (RHS; USU).
Lifecycle Vigorous, clump-forming perennial herb in the mint family, lemon-scented. Both sources independently compare it to mint for its tendency to spread and become weedy -- RHS: "a tendency to spread" and "can take time to remove completely if you no longer want it"; USU: "like mint spreads rapidly (becomes weedy) and can take over an herb bed." Self-seeds unless deadheaded (RHS); USU adds that removing flowers before seed-set is one of the specific controls for in-ground spreading.
Edible parts leaves

At a Glance

A cluster of lemon balm flowers
A cluster of lemon balm flowers. Photo by Cbaile19, CC0.
Melissa officinalis Lemon Balm Powdery mildew Foot and root rot (gene… Glasshouse red spider m… Leafhoppers Aphids DISEASES PESTS

Harvest & Storage

Lemon balm leaves on the plant
Lemon balm leaves on the plant. Photo: “Starr-080117-1570-Melissa officinalis-habit-Walmart Kahului-Maui (24782339512)” by Forest and Kim Starr, CC BY 2.0.

When to pick: RHS: pick leaves whenever needed spring-summer, selecting the youngest for the best flavour; regrowth is quick so harvesting can be regular. USU: harvest about a third of the foliage at monthly intervals, before the plant blooms.

Storage

Use fresh where possible -- RHS notes fresh leaves have better flavour than dried. USU: to dry, tie stems into bundles and hang indoors away from direct sunlight.

Diseases

Close-up of textured lemon balm leaves
Close-up of textured lemon balm leaves. Photo: “Starr-080117-1569-Melissa officinalis-habit-Walmart Kahului-Maui (24532652709)” by Forest and Kim Starr, CC BY 2.0.

Named independently by both RHS and USU ("powdery mildew"), with RHS adding that cutting back affected stems stimulates fresh new growth.

Foot and root rot (general)
low

Named independently by both sources from slightly different angles -- RHS attributes it to cold, soggy winter conditions, USU to over-watering; both point to the same underlying excess-moisture cause.

Pests

A bee pollinating a lemon balm flower
A bee pollinating a lemon balm flower. Photo by Potentillarecta, CC0.
Two-spotted red spider mite with silk threads, magnified — Gilles San Martin, CC BY-SA 2.0
Gilles San Martin, CC BY-SA 2.0
Glasshouse red spider mite (two-spotted spider mite)
low

Tetranychus urticae

USU reports "mite" issues without a specific species -- recorded against the existing generic mite entity.

Leafhoppers
low

Cicadellidae (various spp.)

Named directly by RHS.

low

Aphididae (various spp.)

Named directly by USU.

Plan your Lemon Balms planting

Timing for Lemon Balms follows soil temperature and frost, not the calendar date. The Global vegetable planting calendar explains the method. To work out where it fits in your beds, sketch your plot in the free Garden Layout Planner.

What university and government growers’ guides add about lemon balm

Lemon balm leaves in early June
Lemon balm in early June. Photo by Betty Cai, CC BY-SA 4.0.

Four US university extension services describe the same plant. They agree on the basics and disagree on one point worth knowing about before you plant it.

Growing Lemon Balm in another region

Sowing dates, frost timing and local advice differ by country. Use the guide for where you garden.

Sources

The full list of 2 sources behind this guide (Royal Horticultural Society, Utah State University Extension) is in the references of our UK guide to lemon balm; they describe the plant itself, which is the same wherever it grows.

Frequently Asked Questions

What problems affect lemon balm?

Our data links 2 diseases and 3 pests to this crop. See the sections above for each one and how to manage it.

Plan next season before the problems start

This page gives you the thresholds; the planner turns them into your own calendar. It works from what you can observe and measure in your garden rather than from dates written for somebody else’s latitude.

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SoilCommander Editorial Team — under the guidance of Nitin Sharma, Co-Founder

Every growing guide is checked against RHS, USDA Cooperative Extension, and other named horticultural authorities before publishing. How we check our facts.

How this guide is put together

The growing data on this page — sowing windows, pests, diseases, soil and site requirements — comes from named horticultural sources, listed in References below, checked against international horticultural research and extension sources. An automated pipeline assembles that verified data into the page you're reading: it selects which facts to lead with and builds the surrounding prose and layout. It does not invent a date, a source or a number — where a verified value for a field isn't available, the page leaves it out rather than guessing. A person reviews and publishes each page; nothing goes live unverified.

Vegetable Growing Guides

Last verified 2026-10-24

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