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How to Grow Squash USA | Regional Planting Calendar

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Squash (Cucurbita moschata)

10 sources cited · Verified

The short answer

Plant
Early February to late February
Ready in
60–100 days
Site
6+ hours of sun, soil pH 5.5–7.5
Biggest risk
Powdery mildew

In the UK, squash go in the ground early February to late February, and are ready to harvest 60–100 days after planting.

Squash (Cucurbita moschata) — very tender warm-season annual.

Timing is the decision that matters most in the USA: there are 7 separate regional sowing windows, ranging from early February in Deep South & Gulf Coast to early May in Intermountain West.

Core growing advice on this page is checked against named horticultural and university-extension sources — see References.

Regional Planting Calendar

Region Sow
Deep South & Gulf Coast derived early February to late February
Pacific Northwest derived early March to late March
Mid-Atlantic & Upper South derived early April to late April
Northeast & New England derived early April to late April
Lower Midwest & Ohio Valley derived mid April to early May
N. Plains & Upper Midwest derived late April to mid May
Intermountain West derived early May to late May

Rows marked derived are interpolated between regions our sources do state, because no source we consulted gives a figure for that region specifically. They are deliberately wider to reflect that uncertainty.

Deep South & Gulf Coast - detail & sources

DERIVED from this region's own frost normal, not quoted for the region. Plant when soils are 65F or after all frost danger has passed. With mulch and row covers, seeds or plants can be set out 2-3 weeks before the last frost. Applied to a mean last frost of 2 February (NOAA NCEI 1991-2020 for the USA; Environment and Climate Change Canada normals for Canada), that gives 2 February to 23 February. Your own local frost date is what matters — a region spans a range, and this figure comes from one representative station within it.

Pacific Northwest - detail & sources

DERIVED from this region's own frost normal, not quoted for the region. Plant when soils are 65F or after all frost danger has passed. With mulch and row covers, seeds or plants can be set out 2-3 weeks before the last frost. Applied to a mean last frost of 8 March (NOAA NCEI 1991-2020 for the USA; Environment and Climate Change Canada normals for Canada), that gives 8 March to 29 March. Your own local frost date is what matters — a region spans a range, and this figure comes from one representative station within it.

Mid-Atlantic & Upper South - detail & sources

DERIVED from this region's own frost normal, not quoted for the region. Plant when soils are 65F or after all frost danger has passed. With mulch and row covers, seeds or plants can be set out 2-3 weeks before the last frost. Applied to a mean last frost of 4 April (NOAA NCEI 1991-2020 for the USA; Environment and Climate Change Canada normals for Canada), that gives 4 April to 25 April. Your own local frost date is what matters — a region spans a range, and this figure comes from one representative station within it.

Northeast & New England - detail & sources

DERIVED from this region's own frost normal, not quoted for the region. Plant when soils are 65F or after all frost danger has passed. With mulch and row covers, seeds or plants can be set out 2-3 weeks before the last frost. Applied to a mean last frost of 6 April (NOAA NCEI 1991-2020 for the USA; Environment and Climate Change Canada normals for Canada), that gives 6 April to 27 April. Your own local frost date is what matters — a region spans a range, and this figure comes from one representative station within it.

Lower Midwest & Ohio Valley - detail & sources

DERIVED from this region's own frost normal, not quoted for the region. Plant when soils are 65F or after all frost danger has passed. With mulch and row covers, seeds or plants can be set out 2-3 weeks before the last frost. Applied to a mean last frost of 16 April (NOAA NCEI 1991-2020 for the USA; Environment and Climate Change Canada normals for Canada), that gives 16 April to 7 May. Your own local frost date is what matters — a region spans a range, and this figure comes from one representative station within it.

N. Plains & Upper Midwest - detail & sources

DERIVED from this region's own frost normal, not quoted for the region. Plant when soils are 65F or after all frost danger has passed. With mulch and row covers, seeds or plants can be set out 2-3 weeks before the last frost. Applied to a mean last frost of 25 April (NOAA NCEI 1991-2020 for the USA; Environment and Climate Change Canada normals for Canada), that gives 25 April to 16 May. Your own local frost date is what matters — a region spans a range, and this figure comes from one representative station within it.

Intermountain West - detail & sources

DERIVED from this region's own frost normal, not quoted for the region. Plant when soils are 65F or after all frost danger has passed. With mulch and row covers, seeds or plants can be set out 2-3 weeks before the last frost. Applied to a mean last frost of 6 May (NOAA NCEI 1991-2020 for the USA; Environment and Climate Change Canada normals for Canada), that gives 6 May to 27 May. Your own local frost date is what matters — a region spans a range, and this figure comes from one representative station within it.

Quick Facts

Factor Value
Soil pH 5.5 - 7.5
Sunlight 6-10 hours direct sun
Germination temp 18C
Optimal growing temp 20-30C
Minimum survivable temp 10C
Time to harvest 60-100 days
Soil texture RHS: "rich, moisture-retentive but not waterlogged soil".
Drainage RHS: moisture-retentive but not waterlogged, in "full sun".
Lifecycle very tender warm-season annual; frost will injure top growth
Edible parts fruits

At a Glance

Cucurbita moschata Squash Powdery mildew Grey mould Cucumber mosaic virus Gummy stem blight Anthracnose Alternaria leaf blight Cercospora leaf spot Bacterial wilt of cucur… Downy mildew (general) Slugs Snails Glasshouse whitefly Glasshouse red spider m… Melon aphid (cotton aph… Striped cucumber beetle Spotted cucumber beetle Squash vine borer Pickleworm Squash bug DISEASES PESTS

Soil & Growing Conditions

Water: RHS: "water regularly in dry spells" and "water directly onto the soil". Univ. of Maryland: "Water deeply and regularly at the base of each plant, especially during hot, dry weather and once the first fruits start to form".

Soil pH range

5.5 7.5

Span reflects genuine variation between the cited authorities, not a single agreed figure.

Growth Stages

Stage BBCH Notes
Sowing and germination 0 PLANTING DEPTH AND SPACING. Sow direct once soil reaches 65°F (18°C) or after all frost danger has passed — whichever is later. Seed goes 1–2 in (2.5–5 cm) deep, 4–6 seeds to a mound with mounds 4 ft (1.2 m) apart; thin to two plants per mound after emergence. Transplants go 2 ft apart in rows 4–6 ft apart. Utah State notes that with mulch and row covers seed or plants can be set out 2–3 weeks BEFORE the last frost, which is what lets a long-season squash finish where the season is short. Do not lay organic mulch until soil has reached 75°F — mulching cold ground keeps it cold.
Seedling establishment 1 Thin each mound to the two strongest seedlings. This is the stage cucumber beetles do disproportionate damage at, and where bacterial wilt infection takes hold, so if row cover is going on at all it goes on now — and must come off at flowering for pollination.
Vine growth 3 The plant builds the leaf area that will fund the fruit. Give it the room the spacing implies rather than crowding: airflow between plants is the main defence against the powdery and downy mildews that dominate this family, and Clemson notes powdery mildew favours dry weather with high humidity between 50 and 90°F — conditions growers often assume are safe.
Flowering 6 Utah State: "The first flowers are almost always male. Female flowers will have small fruits behind the flowers." That sequence alarms first-time growers every season and is entirely normal — there is nothing wrong with a plant producing only male flowers for the first week or two. Squash needs insects to move pollen between the two, so where bee activity is poor, hand pollination with a soft brush is the fix.
Fruit development 7 Winter squash takes 45–55 days to mature from flowering. Keep the fruit off wet soil where you can — a board or a bed of straw under a developing squash prevents the rot that follows prolonged ground contact.
Maturity and harvest 8 Utah State's test for winter squash is physical rather than visual: harvest "when the rind is hard and impervious to scratching from a fingernail". A squash cut before that point will not cure and will not store. Leave a few inches of stem attached — a squash snapped off at the shoulder rots from the wound.
Curing and storage 9 Cure, then store cool and dry at 50–55°F (10–13°C). This is the crop's whole point in a kitchen garden: properly cured and stored, it is one of the few vegetables that carries a garden through winter without a freezer.

Harvest & Storage

When to pick: RHS: summer squashes are picked "small and tasty, with a soft skin", while winter squashes should "fully ripen on the plant". Univ. of Maryland: "The rinds need to be hard and firm for the squash to store well", and fruit should be harvested "before heavy frosts arrive".

Storage

RHS: harden the skin by laying fruits "in the sun for an additional week or two", then store "in a well-ventilated place at 10-15°C (50-60°F)", where they "should keep for three months or more". Univ. of Maryland independently gives a storage temperature "between 50⁰ F. and 55⁰ F" (10-12.8C), which sits inside the RHS range.

Diseases

RHS squash guide names powdery mildew among squash diseases.

Fuzzy grey-brown Botrytis mould covering a tomato stem — Rasbak, CC BY-SA 3.0
Rasbak, CC BY-SA 3.0
Grey mould

Botrytis cinerea

Soft brown fruit decay; Fuzzy grey-brown mould

RHS squash guide names grey mould among squash diseases.

Cucumber mosaic virus

Cucumber mosaic virus (CMV)

Covered by the RHS phrase "Cucumbers and other cucurbits"; squash is Cucurbita moschata.

Gummy stem blight
high

Didymella bryoniae

Brown or tan leaf spots, and stem cankers weeping a brown gummy substance, with vines wilting mid-season. No resistant varieties exist, and it survives on debris year to year -- so clearing debris and rotating to a…

Anthracnose
medium

Colletotrichum spp.

Sunken reddish-brown lesions with yellow halo (anthracnose)

Leaf spots beginning yellowish or water-soaked, turning brown to black with a shot-hole look; black, circular, sunken cankers on the fruit. Needs rainy, cool weather for several days. The fungus overwinters on old…

Alternaria leaf blight
medium

Alternaria dauci

Small circular tan spots enlarging past 1.5 inches with concentric rings and a bull's-eye appearance, followed by severe leaf drop. Driven by bright sunshine with frequent dew or rain at 60-90F. Overwinters on plant…

Cercospora leaf spot
medium

Cercospora beticola

Dark spots with lighter centres and darker margins; centres may drop out and lesions merge into blight. Progresses fastest at 79-90F, where new leaves can be infected every 7 to 10 days. Overwinters in crop debris and…

Bacterial wilt of cucurbits
high

Erwinia tracheiphila

Vines wilt severely then die fast. There is no chemical control once a plant is infected, and the bacterium overwinters inside the cucumber beetles rather than in your soil -- so this is a pest problem presenting as a…

Downy mildew (general)
high

Small yellow areas on the upper leaf surface expanding and browning, with grey mould on the underside directly beneath. Favoured by moist conditions. Resistant varieties work; fungicides only work preventatively.

Pests

Slugs

Gastropoda (slugs, various spp.)

RHS squash guide lists slugs and snails among squash pests.

Snails

Gastropoda (snails, various spp.)

RHS squash guide lists slugs and snails among squash pests.

Glasshouse whitefly adult on a leaf — Sanja565658, CC BY-SA 3.0
Sanja565658, CC BY-SA 3.0
Glasshouse whitefly
medium

Trialeurodes vaporariorum

Tiny white sap-feeders in groups on leaf undersides; the honeydew grows sooty mould that cuts photosynthesis and yield, and they vector numerous viruses. Reflective mulches are effective, and beneficial insects do much…

Two-spotted red spider mite with silk threads, magnified — Gilles San Martin, CC BY-SA 2.0
Gilles San Martin, CC BY-SA 2.0
Glasshouse red spider mite (two-spotted spider mite)
medium

Tetranychus urticae

Pale yellow and reddish-brown stippling on the upper leaf surfaces, developing very fast and able to kill or badly stunt plants. Hard to spot until there are hundreds per leaf. Severe outbreaks are linked to…

Melon aphid (cotton aphid)
medium

Aphis gossypii

Found chiefly on leaf undersides, sucking sap and reducing both quality and quantity of fruit; infested leaves curl downward and may brown and die. Usually arrives once vines start to run. Transmits cucumber mosaic…

Striped cucumber beetle
high

Acalymma vittatum

A yellow beetle about a fifth of an inch long with three black stripes. It feeds on every part of the plant from emergence, but the real damage is that it transmits bacterial wilt -- which overwinters inside the…

Spotted cucumber beetle
high

Diabrotica undecimpunctata howardi

Begins feeding as soon as plants emerge and either kills them outright or badly slows growth; the larvae bore into roots and stems. Fabric row covers, handpicking and weed control; remove covers during flowering.

Squash vine borer
high

Melittia cucurbitae

Larvae tunnel into the stems, often killing the plant when they feed in the basal part of the vine. The signs are a vine wilting suddenly and sawdust-like frass coming from holes in the stem. It overwinters in the soil…

Pickleworm
medium

Diaphania nitidalis

Caterpillars tunnel into flowers, buds, stems and fruit, with sawdust-like frass protruding from small holes; damaged fruit often cannot be identified until it is cut open. It cannot survive winter in the Carolinas --…

Squash bug
high

Anasa tristis

A sap feeder that frequently kills squash plants outright; leaves wilt rapidly and go brittle. Adults overwinter unmated in sheltered places and appear slowly in spring, laying brick-red egg clusters as the vines begin…

Companion Planting

Sweetcorn
beneficial

Zea mays

Part of the "Three Sisters" polyculture: the sprawling squash foliage shades the soil, suppressing weeds and conserving moisture beneath the taller sweetcorn.

Runner bean
beneficial

Phaseolus coccineus

The third pairing within the "Three Sisters": nitrogen fixed by the climbing beans benefits the squash, while the squash foliage suppresses weeds around the bean stems.

Pollination

Honeybees Apis mellifera

RHS: insect pollination, mainly by honeybees; cold or poor weather reduces their activity and causes fruitlets to abort or rot at the flower end. Hand-pollination method as for courgette.

References

  1. country=USA

  2. Tier 1. Bacterial wilt (no chemical control once infected; control cucumber beetles at first sign); powdery mildew at 50-90F in dry weather with high humidity; downy mildew in moist conditions; gummy stem blight surviving on debris year to year, no resistant varieties, rotate to non-hosts such as corn for two or more years; anthracnose needing rainy cool weather for several days, overwintering on old vines, rotate three years; Alternaria leaf spot with bull's-eye rings at 60-90F; Cercospora leaf spot at 79-90F reinfecting new leaves every 7-10 days, rotate away from cucurbits 2-3 years; Fusarium wilt surviving in soil for many years with no chemical treatment.

  3. country=INTL

  4. country=UK

  5. country=International

  6. country=UK

  7. country=UK

  8. country=UK

  9. country=USA

  10. Tier 1. Plant when soils are 65F or after all frost danger has passed, sowing 4-6 seeds 1-2 in deep in mounds 4 ft apart and thinning to two plants; transplants 2 ft apart in rows 4-6 ft apart. With mulch and row covers, seeds or plants can be set out 2-3 weeks before the last frost. Do not apply organic mulch until soils reach 75F. Summer squash takes 35-45 days to flowering; winter squash 45-55 days to mature from flowering. The first flowers are almost always male; female flowers carry a small fruit behind the flower. Harvest summer squash immature, 3-5 days after the flower opens, and winter squash once the rind resists a fingernail. Summer squash stores 2-4 days at 45-55F; winter squash in cool dry conditions at 50-55F.

10 independent sources are cited for this crop. Where they disagree - soil pH is the clearest case - every figure is preserved rather than averaged into false precision.

Frequently Asked Questions

When should I sow squash in the USA?

In Deep South & Gulf Coast, from early February. In Intermountain West, wait until early May. Treat these as a guide rather than a fixed date — the governing rule is to sow only once frost risk has passed and temperatures are reliably warm enough.

When do I sow squash?

Sow early February to late May, at around 18°C for germination.

How long do squash take to grow?

Typically 60–100 days, depending on cultivar and growing conditions.

What soil pH do squash need?

A pH of about 5.5–7.5. That span reflects genuine variation between the authorities we cite rather than a single agreed figure — the References section lists each source's exact range.

What problems affect squash?

Our data links 9 diseases and 10 pests to this crop. See the sections above for each one and how to manage it.

Plan next season before the problems start

Almost everything on this page resolves to your own frost dates rather than the calendar — the last spring frost moves by roughly two months between zone 3 and zone 10. The USA Garden Planner works from your zone so the timing is already decided before the season starts.

Get the USA Garden Planner →

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SoilCommander Editorial Team

US vegetable growing guides · Checked against USDA & Cooperative Extension guidance

Every SoilCommander guide is written and maintained by our editorial team for real US growing conditions, and checked against USDA hardiness and frost-date data and Cooperative Extension growing advice before publication.

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Last verified 2026-08-06

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