How to Grow Cauliflower UK
On this page
- Cauliflower (Brassica oleracea Botrytis Group)
- Regional Planting Calendar
- Quick Facts
- At a Glance
- Soil & Growing Conditions
- Growth Stages
- Harvest & Storage
- Diseases
- Pests
- Nutrient Issues
- Companion Planting
- Cauliflower, Seed to Harvest
- Plan your Cauliflower planting
- Growing Cauliflower in another region
- References
- Frequently Asked Questions
In the UK, cauliflower goes in the ground mid January to mid July, and is ready to harvest 60–70 days after planting out.
Timing is the decision that matters most in the UK: sowing mid January, and that same window applies across all 4 regions covered here.
The short answer
- Plant
- Mid January to mid July
- Ready in
- 60–70 days after planting out
- Site
- soil pH 6.5
- Biggest risk
- White blister
Core growing advice on this page is checked against named horticultural sources — see References.
Cauliflower (Brassica oleracea Botrytis Group)
11 sources cited · Verified
Regional Planting Calendar
| Region | Sow |
|---|---|
| Southern England | mid January to mid July |
| Midlands | mid January to mid July |
| Northern England | mid January to mid July |
| Scotland | mid January to mid July |
Southern England - detail & sources
RHS: sowing time depends on type -- early-summer varieties sown mid-to-late winter indoors, summer/autumn varieties sown in spring indoors or mid-to-late spring outdoors, and winter/spring varieties sown late spring to early summer. No regional timing differences are given by RHS for this crop; the range above spans the earliest (early-summer type, mid-winter) to latest (winter/spring type, early summer) sowing across all types.
Midlands - detail & sources
RHS: sowing time depends on type -- early-summer varieties sown mid-to-late winter indoors, summer/autumn varieties sown in spring indoors or mid-to-late spring outdoors, and winter/spring varieties sown late spring to early summer. No regional timing differences are given by RHS for this crop.
Northern England - detail & sources
RHS: sowing time depends on type -- early-summer varieties sown mid-to-late winter indoors, summer/autumn varieties sown in spring indoors or mid-to-late spring outdoors, and winter/spring varieties sown late spring to early summer. No regional timing differences are given by RHS for this crop.
Scotland - detail & sources
RHS: sowing time depends on type -- early-summer varieties sown mid-to-late winter indoors, summer/autumn varieties sown in spring indoors or mid-to-late spring outdoors, and winter/spring varieties sown late spring to early summer. No regional timing differences are given by RHS for this crop.
Quick Facts
| Factor | Value |
|---|---|
| Soil pH | 6.5 - 6.5 |
| Germination temp | 24°C |
| Optimal growing temp | 10-25°C |
| Minimum survivable temp | -5°C |
| Time to harvest | 60-70 days after planting out |
| Drainage | RHS: cauliflowers grow well in soil with a pH of about 6.5; chalk, clay, loam or sand soil types, rich and well-drained with high moisture-holding capacity. |
| Lifecycle | annual/biennial, grown as annual |
| Edible parts | flower buds (curd) |
At a Glance
Soil & Growing Conditions
Growth Stages
| Stage | BBCH | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Germination & seedling | 0 | Cauliflower is raised from seed, sown thinly about 1.5cm (¾in) deep in modules or a seedbed rather than sown direct, so plants can be grown on and transplanted without a check to growth. RHS: sow indoors from late winter for early summer crops, or outdoors from spring; Clemson notes transplants are produced in about five to eight weeks. Keep the compost consistently moist and harden plants off before planting out — any check at this stage can trigger premature "buttoning" (tiny, useless curds). |
| Vegetative growth (transplanting & leafing) | 3 | Transplant when plants are 10–15cm (4–6in) tall, at about six weeks old, into firm, fertile, moisture-retentive soil — loose or poor soil gives small, distorted curds. Spacing depends on type: RHS spaces summer/autumn cauliflowers 45–60cm (18–24in) apart in rows 60cm (24in) apart, winter/spring types about 70cm (28in) each way, and mini-caulis just 15cm (6in) apart; Clemson sets plants 18in apart in rows 3ft apart. Water in well, keep weed-free, feed with nitrogen for strong leaf growth, and net against pigeons and cabbage white caterpillars. |
| Curd formation (heading) | 4 | As the plant matures the growing point forms a tight curd of immature flower buds. Even, uninterrupted moisture is critical now: RHS says cauliflowers grow best in soil that is damp at all times — dry soil can stop growth so the head fails to form correctly — and Clemson stresses plants should never be short of water or fertiliser. To keep white curds pale, snap and fold the inner leaves over the curd (or tie them) to shade it from sun; in winter, bunch and tie the leaves over the curd and use fleece to protect it from hard frost. |
| Maturity & harvest | 8 | Cut the curd as soon as it is large enough while still firm and compact — RHS warns that once the head starts to separate it is past its best; Clemson gives roughly 60–70 days from transplanting, though winter types take far longer (three to six months from sowing overall). Harvest in the cool of the morning by cutting through the stem with a sharp knife, leaving a few wrapper leaves around the curd to protect it. Curds do not store for long, so cut as needed or keep in the fridge for a few days. |
Harvest & Storage
Diseases
Pests
Nutrient Issues
Companion Planting
Cauliflower, Seed to Harvest
Plan your Cauliflower planting
When to sow and plant Cauliflower depends on your own frost dates. Check the UK vegetable planting calendar. To work out where it fits in your beds, sketch your plot in the free Garden Layout Planner.
Growing Cauliflower in another region
Sowing dates, frost timing and local advice differ by country. Use the guide for where you garden.
References
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Black rot shows yellow V-shaped lesions with the point of the V directed toward a vein, favoured by high temperature and humidity, surviving on debris up to two years when buried plus on wild mustard and contaminated seed; avoid cole crops where it occurred within two to three years and do not handle wet plants. Downy mildew is grey mould on the lower leaf surface with yellowing above. Alternaria leaf spot makes brown circular target spots with concentric rings between 60 and 90°F, overwintering on residue, calling for three-year rotation. Pythium damping-off rots seedlings at the soil line.
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Diamondback moth is "the most serious insect pest of brassica crops in South Carolina", leaving a window-pane appearance where the upper leaf surface stays intact. Damage is quantified relative to each other: one cabbage looper does roughly the damage of 5 diamondback moth larvae, and imported cabbageworm about two-thirds of a looper. Cross-striped cabbageworm hatches in masses and can rapidly skeletonise a plant, dropping to pupate just under the soil surface. Cabbage webworm damages buds and growing points, causing lateral budding. Cabbage aphids are commoner in cool autumn weather. Flea beetles are most problematic on mustard and turnips, which lack the protective waxy coating.
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Sow indoors 4-6 weeks before the desired transplant date. Space plants 24in apart in the row with 30in between rows. Maintain soil pH 6.0-6.8 for optimal growth and to discourage clubroot. Water 1-1.5in per week when rainfall is short, keeping soil consistently moist. Blanching: as the curd forms, gather and tie the leaves over it with soft twine, tape or rubber bands to shield it from sun, doing so when the curd is DRY to prevent disease. Harvest about two months after transplanting, cutting curds at roughly 6in across but BEFORE the buds begin to separate, leaving at least two wrapper leaves attached. Disorder: "buttoning", stunted curds caused by prolonged heat or drought. Diseases: blackleg, black rot, clubroot, yellows. Insects: cabbage looper, imported cabbage worm, cabbage root maggot, aphids, slugs, flea beetles.
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General cross-plant guide, strawberry named explicitly under Boron.
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Canadian source: start transplants 5-6 weeks before planting out; germinates in 5-6 days at 24°C; transplant once days reach 10°C and nights hold above -2°C for several nights running, in Saskatoon any time after 13 May; 30-45 cm in row, 60-85 cm between rows; mature brassicas frost tolerant but young transplants much less so; blanch by tying outer leaves; harvest firm and dense; store near 0°C at high humidity.
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US extension source: transplant 1-2 weeks before the last frost-free date with 4-6 mature leaves; 12-18 in in row, rows 2-3 ft; grows best below 75°F; growth, yield and head quality all fall at 32°F or above 80°F; blanch when heads reach silver-dollar size; harvest at 6-12 in, compact and blanched; 1-2 in water per week; stores 3 weeks at 32°F.
11 independent sources are cited for this crop. Where they disagree - soil pH is the clearest case - every figure is preserved rather than averaged into false precision.
Frequently Asked Questions
When should I sow cauliflower in the UK?
In Southern England, from mid January. In Scotland, wait until mid January. Treat these as a guide rather than a fixed date — the governing rule is to sow only once frost risk has passed and temperatures are reliably warm enough.
When do I sow cauliflower?
Sow mid January to mid July, at around 24°C for germination.
How long does cauliflower take to grow?
Typically 60–70 days after planting out, depending on cultivar and growing conditions.
What soil pH does cauliflower need?
A pH of about 6.5–6.5. That span reflects genuine variation between the authorities we cite rather than a single agreed figure — the References section lists each source's exact range.
What problems affect cauliflower?
Our data links 6 diseases and 11 pests to this crop. See the sections above for each one and how to manage it.
Plan next season before the problems start
Most of the advice on this page comes down to timing and spacing — sowing at the right moment, rotating beds, and giving plants enough airflow. The UK Garden Planner lays your plot out month by month so those decisions are already made before the season starts.
Get the UK Garden Planner →Instant PDF download · Written for UK growing conditions
How this guide is put together
The growing data on this page — sowing windows, pests, diseases, soil and site requirements — comes from named horticultural sources, listed in References below, checked against RHS and Met Office guidance. An automated pipeline assembles that verified data into the page you're reading: it selects which facts to lead with and builds the surrounding prose and layout. It does not invent a date, a source or a number — where a verified value for a field isn't available, the page leaves it out rather than guessing. A person reviews and publishes each page; nothing goes live unverified.
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Last verified 2026-09-02
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