How to Grow Garlic in Canada

On this page
  1. Garlic (Allium sativum)
  2. Quick Facts
  3. At a Glance
  4. Soil & Growing Conditions
  5. Growth Stages
  6. Harvest & Storage
  7. Diseases
  8. Pests
  9. Companion Planting
  10. Garlic Through the Season
  11. Plan your Garlic planting
  12. Growing Garlic in another region
  13. Sources
  14. Is Garlic Better in Pots or in the Ground?
  15. Frequently Asked Questions

In Canada, garlic is planted in fall: Ontario's OMAFRA describes garlic as requiring a cold period to initiate growth, and the same chilling requirement — commonly one to two months near 0–10°C — is documented independently by RHS (UK) and University of Maryland Extension (US).

The short answer

Ready in
250–270 days
Site
6+ hours of sun, soil pH 6–8
Biggest risk
Allium white rot

Core growing advice on this page is checked against named horticultural sources — see References.

Garlic (Allium sativum)

A lush patch of green garlic plants growing in a garden bed. "A lush patch of green Garlic plants growing in a garden." by appealdahal, CC0 1.0, via WordPress Photo Directory.

Also known as: Clove of Garlic, Cultivated Garlic · 17 sources cited · Verified

Quick Facts

Factor Value
Soil pH 6 - 8
Sunlight 6-10 hours direct sun
Optimal growing temp 18-30°C
Minimum survivable temp -5°C
Time to harvest 250-270 days
Soil texture Deep, rich loamy soil high in organic matter; grows poorly in soils high in clay or compacted (Ohio State; Univ. of Maryland).
Drainage Free-draining / well-drained. RHS notes wet soil makes garlic more prone to disease; Ohio State notes poorly drained, compacted soils cause disease and small or misshapen heads.
Lifecycle perennial (cultivated as a winter annual)
Edible parts bulb, cloves, leaves, flower stalks (scapes), bulbils (top sets)
Documented problems 5 diseases, 4 pests

At a Glance

Allium sativum Garlic Allium white rot Leek rust Onion neck rot Fusarium basal rot Onion downy mildew Leek moth Onion fly Allium leaf miner Stem and bulb nematode DISEASES PESTS

Soil & Growing Conditions

A garlic plant with a developing bulb at the base — “Garlic (Allium sativum)” by Franco Folini is licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0. Source: Flickr
“Garlic (Allium sativum)” by Franco Folini is licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0. Source: Flickr.

Water: Univ. of Maryland: direct light at least 6 hours/day, prefers 8-10 hours/day. Ohio State: about 1 inch of water per week through June, reducing as leaves yellow. RHS: water during dry spells in spring and early summer, but stop once bulbs are large and well formed; avoid wetting the leaves.

Humidity: No specific humidity optimum — garlic is grown across a wide humidity range. What matters is free drainage and dry conditions around the bulb: RHS and Ohio State both link wet, poorly drained soil and persistently damp conditions to higher risk of rust, white rot and neck/basal rot. Avoid wetting the foliage, and stop watering as the bulbs mature.

Soil pH range

6 8

Span reflects genuine variation between the cited authorities, not a single agreed figure.

Growth Stages

Stage BBCH Notes
Establishment 0 Garlic needs a cold period before it will form a proper bulb, which is why it is autumn-planted. RHS: most varieties need one to two months at 0-10°C (32-50°F) for good bulb development. Univ. of Maryland states the same requirement independently: cloves must be exposed to 32-50°F temperatures for two months prior to bulb enlargement. OMAFRA likewise describes garlic as requiring a cold period to initiate growth. Plant deep enough and early enough to root before hard frost, but not so early that shoots emerge and are exposed to winter injury. Planting spacing and depth (sources agree closely): RHS — plant cloves upright with the tip about 2.5 cm below the surface, 15 cm apart in rows 30 cm apart. University of Maryland and Ohio State — set cloves 2.5–5 cm (1–2 in) deep and 10–15 cm (4–6 in) apart, in rows about 30 cm (12 in) apart, pointed end up.
Vegetative growth (leaf development) 3 From late winter into spring the cloves put on leaf. Keep the bed weed-free — garlic competes poorly with weeds (RHS, Ohio State). Water in dry spells (Ohio State: about 2.5 cm / 1 inch of water per week through the main growing period), and mulch to conserve moisture and suppress weeds.
Bulb development (scaping & bulbing) 4 Bulbing is triggered by lengthening spring days once the earlier cold requirement has been met (RHS; Univ. of Maryland). Hardneck types throw a central flower stalk (scape) in early summer — snapping or cutting it off redirects energy into the bulb and gives larger heads; the scapes are edible. Reduce watering as the bulbs swell, and stop once heads are large and well formed (RHS) so they do not sit wet and rot.
Maturation & harvest 8 The crop is mature when the lower leaves yellow and die back from the tips (Ohio State, OMAFRA, RHS). Lift when roughly half the foliage has browned and the bulbs are full-sized and well-wrapped (Univ. of Maryland), using a fork rather than pulling by the stem. Dry and cure the bulbs before storing.

Harvest & Storage

Freshly harvested garlic laid out to cure — “Garlic harvest” by martindelisle31 is licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0. Source: Flickr
“Garlic harvest” by martindelisle31 is licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0. Source: Flickr.

When to pick: Sources agree that garlic is lifted as the foliage dies back, but differ on how far to let it go. Univ. of Maryland: harvest when about half of the foliage turns brown and bulbs are full-sized and well-wrapped. OMAFRA (Ontario): begin harvesting when 30-50% of the leaves have died back, with leaves turning tan brown from the tips toward the base. Ohio State: harvest when the lower leaves begin to yellow, lifting with a spade or shovel rather than pulling the stem. RHS: harvest once leaves have turned yellow.

Storage

Cure before storing. Ohio State: dry the heads out of the sun for several days, then cure two to three weeks. OMAFRA: tie 10-15 plants into a bundle and hang to dry in a well-ventilated area, or use forced air. RHS: dry thoroughly in a single layer in the sun or in a dry, well-ventilated shed. Cold storage figures agree closely -- Univ. of Maryland 32-38°F (0-3.3°C) at 65% RH; OMAFRA 0-4°C at 60-70% RH for table stock; Ohio State above freezing but no higher than 40°F (4.4°C) and no more than 75% humidity. RHS separately gives 5-10°C for domestic storage, a warmer ambient-shed context rather than a contradiction. Keeping quality is variety-dependent: RHS gives four to six months for hardneck and up to a year for softneck; Univ. of Maryland 6-9 months; OMAFRA up to 4 months (hardneck) or 8 months (softneck) at room temperature, and 6 to over 12 months under controlled conditions.

Diseases

Allium white rot

Stromatinia cepivora (syn. Sclerotium cepivorum)

RHS names garlic among the affected hosts: "Onions, garlic, leeks and other alliums".

Leek rust

Puccinia porri (syn. Puccinia allii)

RHS names garlic explicitly among affected hosts. The RHS garlic page also lists leek rust under garlic problems.

Onion neck rot

Botrytis allii

RHS qualifies garlic as an occasional host: "Onions and shallots (occasionally garlic)".

Fusarium basal rot

Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. cepae (also Fusarium proliferatum)

UC IPM: affects "Onion, garlic, and other Allium crops such as leek".

Onion downy mildew

Peronospora destructor

UC IPM names garlic explicitly among the hosts: "Garlic, onion, shallot, chives, and leek". This resolves an earlier caveat -- the RHS disease page listed only onions, salad onions, shallots and chives, so the garlic…

Pests

Leek moth

Acrolepiopsis assectella

RHS: affects "Leek, onion, shallot, garlic". The RHS garlic guide also lists leek moth under garlic problems.

Onion fly

Delia antiqua

Linked because the RHS garlic growing guide lists onion fly among garlic problems; note the RHS onion fly page itself names only onion, shallots and leeks.

Allium leaf miner

Phytomyza gymnostoma

RHS: affects "Leeks, onion, chives, shallot and garlic".

Stem and bulb nematode

Ditylenchus dipsaci

RHS names garlic among affected vegetables; Allium family members "swell and distort (onion blout)".

Companion Planting

avoid shared disease

Allium ampeloprasum var. porrum

Both crops are documented hosts of Allium white rot. These pathogens persist in soil for many years -- RHS gives up to 20 years for club root resting spores, at least 15 years for allium white rot sclerotia, and advises a five-year gap before replanting onions or shallots after downy mildew -- so…

avoid shared disease

Allium cepa

Both crops are documented hosts of Allium white rot and Onion downy mildew. These pathogens persist in soil for many years -- RHS gives up to 20 years for club root resting spores, at least 15 years for allium white rot sclerotia, and advises a five-year gap before replanting onions or shallots…

avoid shared disease

Allium cepa Aggregatum Group

Both crops are documented hosts of Allium white rot and Onion downy mildew. These pathogens persist in soil for many years -- RHS gives up to 20 years for club root resting spores, at least 15 years for allium white rot sclerotia, and advises a five-year gap before replanting onions or shallots…

avoid shared disease

Allium fistulosum

Both crops are documented hosts of Onion downy mildew. These pathogens persist in soil for many years -- RHS gives up to 20 years for club root resting spores, at least 15 years for allium white rot sclerotia, and advises a five-year gap before replanting onions or shallots after downy mildew --…

avoid shared disease

Allium ampeloprasum var. ampeloprasum

Sclerotia of the white rot fungus persist in soil for many years and germinate in response to root exudates from any allium, so the ground stays infective long after the crop is gone. Do not follow one allium with another on affected ground.

Plan your Garlic planting

When to sow and plant Garlic depends on your own frost dates. Check the Canada vegetable planting calendar, or the month-by-month guides that cover Garlic: June, July, August, September, October, November. To work out where it fits in your beds, sketch your plot in the free Garden Layout Planner.

Growing Garlic in another region

Sowing dates, frost timing and local advice differ by country. Use the guide for where you garden.

Sources

These source is specific to this region. The full list of 17 sources behind this guide (FAO EcoCrop, Global Biodiversity Information Facility (GBIF), Government of Ontario (OMAFRA) and others) is in the references of our UK guide to garlic; they describe the plant itself, which is the same wherever it grows.

Is Garlic Better in Pots or in the Ground?

Either works, but the ground is the safer default through a cold winter. The RHS treats a pot as a practical alternative rather than an upgrade — suitable "if you have soil that doesn't drain well or you're limited for soil space" — calling for a pot at least 25cm (10in) deep, at the same spacing and depth used in the ground, with closer attention to watering since containers dry out faster than open soil.

The real risk is winter cold on fall-planted garlic. An above-ground container has none of the insulating mass that garden soil provides, so it swings through freeze-thaw cycles the ground itself is buffered against. University of Saskatchewan Extension puts it plainly for prairie and northern climates: fall-planted garlic in containers "would result in frozen bulbs and is not recommended." Ask Extension (Minnesota) reaches the same conclusion, recommending the open garden bed instead, or growing containers indoors only. Where winters regularly freeze hard, plant fall garlic in the ground and mulch it — save containers for a spring-planted crop, or for a sheltered spot that doesn't freeze solid.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does garlic take to grow?

Typically 250–270 days, depending on cultivar and growing conditions.

What soil pH does garlic need?

A pH of about 6–8. That span reflects genuine variation between the authorities we cite rather than a single agreed figure — the References section lists each source's exact range.

What problems affect garlic?

Our data links 5 diseases and 4 pests to this crop. See the sections above for each one and how to manage it.

Plan next season before the problems start

Short-season growing is arithmetic before it is technique: days to maturity against frost-free days decides what will finish at all. The Canada Garden Planner does that subtraction for your region before you sow.

Get the Canada Garden Planner →

Instant PDF download · Written for Canadian growing conditions

SoilCommander Editorial Team — under the direction of Nitin Sharma, Co-Founder

Every growing guide is checked against RHS, USDA Cooperative Extension, and other named horticultural authorities before publishing.

How this guide is put together

The growing data on this page — sowing windows, pests, diseases, soil and site requirements — comes from named horticultural sources, listed in References below, checked against Canadian hardiness-zone and frost-date data, with provincial agriculture and university extension sources cited directly where one exists for a crop. An automated pipeline assembles that verified data into the page you're reading: it selects which facts to lead with and builds the surrounding prose and layout. It does not invent a date, a source or a number — where a verified value for a field isn't available, the page leaves it out rather than guessing. A person reviews and publishes each page; nothing goes live unverified.

Vegetable Growing Guides Canada

Last verified 2026-08-06

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This guide in another region
Top tips for October
  • Plant garlic before hard frosts
  • Protect late salads with fleece
  • Store squash somewhere dry
  • Mulch empty beds
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