Garlic is one of the easiest and most rewarding crops to grow in the UK — plant in autumn, largely ignore it over winter, and harvest plump bulbs the following summer.
Founder & Head Grower, SoilCommander · RHS Level 2 · 12+ years growing in Yorkshire
I've been growing vegetables on my Yorkshire allotment and raised beds since 2012. Everything I write is based on what I've actually grown, failed at, and eventually got right in a real UK climate.
Not sure when to plant? See our When to Plant Garlic UK →
Watch this short guide to growing spring garlic at home in the UK — covering planting cloves, caring through winter, removing scapes, and harvesting plump bulbs in summer.
🌱 Did you know? Each green leaf on a garlic plant at harvest time corresponds to one wrapper layer on the bulb — harvest when 4–5 green leaves remain for the best storage life.
Garlic Growing Calendar
| Task | Timing | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Plant (autumn — preferred) | October – November | Best time; cold vernalisation produces larger bulbs |
| Plant (spring) | February – March | Possible but produces smaller bulbs; use softneck varieties |
| Remove scapes (hardneck) | June | Cut curling flower stalks to redirect energy to bulb |
| Reduce watering | June – July | Stop watering as foliage begins to yellow |
| Harvest | June – July | When lower leaves yellow but 4–5 green leaves remain |
| Cure and store | July – August | Dry in warm, airy spot for 3–4 weeks before storing |
Planting Garlic
Break bulbs into individual cloves just before planting — do not separate them weeks in advance. Plant cloves pointed end up, 5–8cm deep, 15cm apart in rows 30cm apart. Deeper planting (8cm) is better in colder, wetter regions as it protects against frost heave.
Autumn planting (October–November) is strongly preferred in the UK. Garlic needs a cold period (vernalisation) to trigger proper bulb development — the RHS confirms this cold requirement is why October–November planting gives the strongest bulbs. Spring-planted garlic misses this and typically produces smaller, single-clove bulbs (rounds) rather than segmented heads.
Growing Conditions
Soil
Garlic needs well-drained, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0–7.0. It will rot in waterlogged ground. Incorporate well-rotted compost before planting. Raised beds are ideal in heavy clay soils. Avoid freshly manured ground.
Position
Full sun. Garlic tolerates partial shade but produces smaller bulbs. Avoid frost pockets for spring planting. Good air circulation reduces the risk of rust and white rot.
Watering
Water sparingly — garlic is drought-tolerant once established. Water during dry spells in spring but reduce significantly from June as bulbs mature. Stop watering entirely once foliage begins to yellow. Excess moisture causes rot and reduces storage life.
Best Varieties
Solent Wight (Softneck)
UK-bred variety with excellent flavour and outstanding storage — up to 12 months. Reliable and widely available. RHS Award of Garden Merit.
Elephant Garlic
Technically a leek relative, but grown like garlic. Produces enormous, mild-flavoured cloves. Impressive but milder than true garlic.
Lautrec Wight (Hardneck)
French pink-skinned hardneck with rich, complex flavour. Produces scapes in June. Shorter storage than softneck — use within 4–6 months.
Picardy Wight (Softneck)
High-yielding softneck with good disease resistance. Stores well. Good all-rounder for UK conditions.
Regional Timing
| Region | Autumn Planting | Spring Planting |
|---|---|---|
| South England | Late October – November | February – early March |
| Midlands / Wales | October – early November | Late February – March |
| North England | October | March |
| Scotland | Early – mid-October | March – April; use softneck varieties |
Top 3 Mistakes to Avoid
- Planting supermarket garlic. Supermarket garlic is often imported from warmer climates and may carry viruses. It is not certified virus-free and may not be suited to UK conditions. Always buy certified seed garlic from a reputable supplier.
- Planting in waterlogged soil. Garlic rots quickly in wet, poorly drained ground. If your soil is heavy clay, plant in raised beds or improve drainage with grit before planting. This is the single biggest cause of garlic failure in the UK.
- Harvesting too late. Leaving garlic in the ground too long causes the outer wrapper to break down, reducing storage life dramatically. Harvest when 4–5 green leaves remain — each leaf corresponds to a wrapper layer on the bulb.
Companion Planting
- Roses — garlic is said to deter aphids and blackspot when planted nearby
- Fruit trees — planted at the base to deter borers and fungal disease
- Tomatoes — garlic may deter spider mites
- Avoid beans and peas — garlic inhibits legume growth; keep well separated
- Avoid asparagus — garlic inhibits asparagus growth
Main Pest & Disease Risk
Garlic rust (Puccinia allii) is the most common problem in UK gardens — orange pustules on leaves, most prevalent in warm, humid summers. It rarely kills plants but reduces bulb size. Improve air circulation, avoid overhead watering, and remove affected leaves. White rot (Stromatinia cepivora) is a serious soil-borne disease with no cure — rotate alliums on a minimum 8-year cycle. Leek moth larvae tunnel into leaves and bulbs — protect with fine mesh from planting.
The Isle of Wight is the UK’s garlic capital — the Garlic Farm there has been growing garlic since the 1970s and developed many of the Wight varieties now sold across Britain. The annual Garlic Festival on the island attracts tens of thousands of visitors each August and features garlic ice cream, garlic beer, and garlic chocolate.
Frequently Asked Questions
When is the best time to plant garlic in the UK?
Autumn planting (October–November) gives the best results in the UK. Garlic needs a cold period (vernalisation) to develop properly segmented bulbs. Spring planting (February–March) is possible but typically produces smaller bulbs. In Scotland and northern England, plant in early October before the ground freezes.
What is the difference between hardneck and softneck garlic?
Hardneck garlic produces a central flower stalk (scape) in June, has fewer but larger cloves, and has a more complex flavour — but stores for only 4–6 months. Softneck garlic has more cloves per bulb, no scape, and stores for up to 12 months. Softneck is better for long storage; hardneck is preferred by cooks for flavour.
What are garlic scapes and should I remove them?
Scapes are the curling flower stalks produced by hardneck garlic varieties in June. Removing them redirects the plant’s energy into bulb development, producing larger heads. Scapes are edible — use them like spring onions or mild garlic in stir-fries, pestos, and soups. Remove when they have made one full curl.
Why are my garlic bulbs small?
Small bulbs are usually caused by spring planting (missing vernalisation), planting in shade, overcrowding, or harvesting too early. Ensure autumn planting, full sun, 15cm spacing, and harvest when 4–5 green leaves remain. Using supermarket garlic rather than certified seed garlic also produces smaller, less vigorous bulbs.
How do I store garlic after harvest?
Cure harvested garlic by hanging in bunches or laying on wire mesh in a warm, dry, well-ventilated spot for 3–4 weeks. Once the outer skins are papery and the neck is dry, store in nets, plaits, or slatted trays in a cool, dark, frost-free location. Softneck varieties store for up to 12 months; hardneck for 4–6 months.
Plan Your Garlic Crop — and Every Other Veg
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