How to Grow Rhubarb

On this page
  1. Rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum)
  2. Soil & Growing Conditions
  3. Growth Stages
  4. Quick Facts
  5. At a Glance
  6. Harvest & Storage
  7. Diseases
  8. Pests
  9. Plan your Rhubarb planting
  10. What the research guides add
  11. Growing Rhubarb in another region
  12. Sources
  13. Frequently Asked Questions

Rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum) — perennial.

Unlike an annual crop, the work here is front-loaded into establishment: get the planting and the site right and the same plants crop for several seasons.

Core growing advice on this page is checked against named horticultural sources — see References.

Rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum)

A large established rhubarb clump growing in a garden bed alongside others — “Hanbury Hall Gardens - rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum)” by DeFacto is licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0.

4 sources cited · Verified

Soil & Growing Conditions

Water: RHS: newly planted rhubarb needs regular watering during dry spells; established plants need water only during prolonged dry periods, and container plants must never be waterlogged. Utah State: for the first 2-3 years "irrigate one to two times weekly so water penetrates to the bottom of the root-ball (usually 6 inches to a foot deep)", then from year 3 "once every 1 to 2 weeks" with water reaching "12 to 18 inches deep".

Growth Stages

Stage BBCH Notes
Planting the crown 0 Plant so the crown tip -- where the leaves emerge -- sits just above the soil surface, spaced 75-90cm apart to allow for how much the clump will expand. RHS.
Establishment (little or no harvest) 3 No stems should be harvested in the first year after planting, and only a few in the second, to let the plant establish; normal harvesting begins in the third year. RHS.
Cropping season 5 Most varieties are harvested from April or May. Always twist stalks gently to ease them out of the ground rather than cutting, which leaves a stump prone to rotting. Forcing a plant under a jar in midwinter, excluding light, gives earlier, paler, sweeter stalks in about five weeks. RHS.
Recovery & division 9 Stop harvesting by late June or early July to let the plant rebuild its strength for next year. Mature clumps benefit from being divided every five years or so. RHS.

Quick Facts

Factor Value
Soil texture RHS: "fertile, moisture-retentive soil that doesn't get waterlogged".
Drainage RHS: moisture-retentive but not waterlogged; an "open, sunny site", though rhubarb "will also cope in light shade".
Lifecycle perennial
Edible parts leaf stalks (petioles)

At a Glance

Rheum rhabarbarum Rhubarb Downy mildew (general) Snails Slugs DISEASES PESTS

Harvest & Storage

When to pick: Rhubarb is a long-lived perennial, so readiness is measured in years and stalk length rather than days from sowing -- days_to_harvest is therefore null. RHS: pull a "young stalk about 30cm (1ft) long, with a leaf that has only just fully opened", taking no stems in the first year, "only a few" in the second, and harvesting normally from the third. Utah State: "Stalks are ready for harvest when the petiole is 10 to 15 inches long", with no harvest "for 2 years after planting" and 3 to 4 weeks of harvest in the third year.

Storage

RHS: rhubarb is "best used fresh, but can be frozen or stored in the fridge for a couple of weeks". Utah State: "Fresh stalks can be refrigerated for 2 to 4 weeks in plastics sacks". RHS forcing: cover in "mid-winter" for "four to eight weeks" of growth.

Diseases

Downy mildew (general)

RHS names rhubarb among the vegetables affected by downy mildews.

Pests

Snails

Gastropoda (snails, various spp.)

RHS rhubarb guide lists slugs and snails among rhubarb pests.

Slugs

Gastropoda (slugs, various spp.)

RHS rhubarb guide lists slugs and snails among rhubarb pests.

Plan your Rhubarb planting

Timing for Rhubarb follows soil temperature and frost, not the calendar date. The Global vegetable planting calendar explains the method. To work out where it fits in your beds, sketch your plot in the free Garden Layout Planner.

What the research guides add

Rhubarb leaves and stalks in spring
Rhubarb leaves and stalks in spring. Photo: “Rheum rhabarbarum.2006-04-27.uellue” by Dieter Weber (User:Uellue), CC BY-SA 3.0.

Rhubarb is a long-lived crop, so the two extension services below agree on the point that matters most: be patient in the first two years.

  • A hardy herbaceous perennial that grows 2 to 4 feet tall; the leaves emerge from crown buds when temperatures begin to exceed 40°F in early spring. Utah State says it can live in the garden for 10 to 15 years. (Wisconsin Extension, Utah State Extension)
  • Choose a site in full sun where it can remain undisturbed; it likes fertile, well-drained soil high in organic matter. Raised beds help prevent crown rot (Wisconsin). (Wisconsin Extension)
  • Plant crowns or divisions about 3 feet apart (Wisconsin), in early spring, with the leaf bud 1 inch beneath the soil and rows 4 feet apart (Utah State). (Wisconsin Extension, Utah State Extension)
  • Do not harvest any stalks in the first year; Wisconsin says wait until the second or third year so the roots can establish, and Utah State says not for 2 years after planting. (Wisconsin Extension, Utah State Extension)
  • A plant yields 4 to 12 pounds of stalks annually depending on age, variety and growing conditions. The leaves contain a toxic amount of oxalic acid and are poisonous; only the stalks are eaten. (Utah State Extension, Wisconsin Extension)
  • Utah State warns that rhubarb is very likely to produce flower stalks, which need removing. (Utah State Extension)

Growing Rhubarb in another region

Planting dates, frost timing and local advice differ by country. Use the guide for where you garden.

Sources

These source is specific to this region. The full list of 4 sources behind this guide (Global Biodiversity Information Facility (GBIF), Royal Horticultural Society, Utah State University Extension) is in the references of our UK guide to rhubarb; they describe the plant itself, which is the same wherever it grows.

Frequently Asked Questions

What problems affect rhubarb?

Our data links 1 disease and 2 pests to this crop. See the sections above for each one and how to manage it.

Plan next season before the problems start

This page gives you the thresholds; the planner turns them into your own calendar. It works from what you can observe and measure in your garden rather than from dates written for somebody else’s latitude.

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SoilCommander Editorial Team — under the guidance of Nitin Sharma, Co-Founder

Every growing guide is checked against RHS, USDA Cooperative Extension, and other named horticultural authorities before publishing. How we check our facts.

How this guide is put together

The growing data on this page — planting windows, pests, diseases, soil and site requirements — comes from named horticultural sources, listed in References below, checked against international horticultural research and extension sources. An automated pipeline assembles that verified data into the page you're reading: it selects which facts to lead with and builds the surrounding prose and layout. It does not invent a date, a source or a number — where a verified value for a field isn't available, the page leaves it out rather than guessing. A person reviews and publishes each page; nothing goes live unverified.

Vegetable Growing Guides

Last verified 2026-10-25

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