Shallot (Allium cepa Aggregatum Group)
11 sources cited · Verified
The short answer
- Sow
- Mid January to late March
- Plant out
- Mid February to mid April
- Ready in
- 90–120 days
- Site
- soil pH 6–7
- Biggest risk
- Allium white rot
In the UK, shallots are sown mid January to late March, planted out mid February to mid April, and are ready to harvest 90–120 days after sowing.
Shallots (Allium cepa Aggregatum Group) — Hardy biennial grown as an annual.
Core growing advice on this page is checked against named horticultural and university-extension sources — see References.
Companion Planting
Quick Facts
| Factor | Value |
|---|---|
| Soil pH | 6 - 7 |
| Optimal growing temp | 20-25C |
| Minimum survivable temp | -5C |
| Time to harvest | 90-120 days |
| Drainage | RHS: "fertile, well-drained soil" in a sunny site; avoid "damp soil" and "heavy soil prone to waterlogging". |
| Lifecycle | Hardy biennial grown as an annual. The cluster of bulbs is harvested in the first season; plants would flower and set seed only in a second year after cold exposure. Shallots tolerate frost, and some varieties are planted in autumn or winter to overwinter in UK gardens. |
| Edible parts | bulbs |
At a Glance
Regional Planting Calendar
| Region | Sow | Plant out |
|---|---|---|
| Southern England | mid January to late March | mid February to mid April |
| Midlands derived | late January to late March | early March to mid April |
| Northern England derived | early February to early April | mid March to late April |
| Scotland derived | mid February to mid April | late March to late April |
Rows marked derived are interpolated between regions our sources do state, because no source we consulted gives a figure for that region specifically. They are deliberately wider to reflect that uncertainty.
Southern England - detail & sources
Plant shallot sets from early to mid-spring (RHS); in mild southern gardens the earliest can go in from late winter, and some varieties are planted in autumn (Sept-Oct) to overwinter. Seed can be started indoors from mid-winter or sown outdoors in mid-spring. Southern England has the UK's earliest soil-warming and last frosts (Met Office), so the earliest starts apply here.
Midlands - detail & sources
DERIVED from the RHS early-to-mid-spring planting window, shifted about a week later than southern England because the Midlands warm and pass the last frost slightly later (Met Office south-to-north gradient). Autumn overwintering of hardy varieties is possible on free-draining soil.
Northern England - detail & sources
DERIVED: about two weeks later than southern England for the earliest set-planting and outdoor sowing, reflecting the Met Office south-to-north warming gradient. Start seed under cover to gain time; autumn planting is riskier on cold, wet ground.
Scotland - detail & sources
DERIVED: the latest UK start - plant sets and sow from about April, as Scotland is slowest to warm and its last frosts are latest (Met Office). Spring planting is safest here; avoid autumn planting on heavy, waterlogged soil where sets may rot.
Soil & Growing Conditions
Growth Stages
| Stage | BBCH | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Planting & Establishment | 0 | Shallots are usually grown from heat-treated sets. PLANTING DEPTH & SPACING: push each set into soft, firmed soil so the tip is just showing at the surface, spacing them 15-20cm (6-8in) apart in rows 25-30cm (10-12in) apart (RHS). From seed, sow in drills 1.5cm (half inch) deep with rows about 25cm (10in) apart, thinning seedlings to 10cm (4in). TIMING: plant sets from early to mid-spring; some varieties can be planted in autumn or even winter to overwinter, but avoid autumn/winter planting on heavy, waterlogged soil where the bulbs may rot. Choose an open, sunny site on fertile, free-draining ground. Birds often tug newly planted sets out by the withered tops, so check and re-firm any that lift. |
| Leaf Growth & Clump Formation | 3 | Each set multiplies, sending up a clump of slender leaves as it begins to divide into a cluster of bulbs. Keep the bed regularly weeded - shallot foliage casts little shade and competes poorly with weeds - taking care not to disturb the shallow roots. Water only in prolonged dry spells in early summer (and container plants more often); established plants in the ground rarely need it. If any flower stems appear, pull or cut them out at once so the plant puts its energy into forming bulbs rather than seed. |
| Bulb Development (Bulbing) | 7 | Through early to mid-summer the clump swells into a cluster of new bulbs. Ease off watering as the bulbs enlarge and STOP watering once the bulbs have swollen in mid-summer, so the skins firm and the shallots store well. Keep weeding lightly and remove any late flower stems. No feeding is usually needed if the soil was enriched before planting. |
| Ripening, Harvest & Curing | 8 | The crop is ready in mid- to late summer, once the leaves flop over and start to die back. On a dry day, ease each cluster up with a hand fork and gently separate the bulbs, taking care not to bruise them. Dry (cure) the bulbs for about two weeks on wire racks in the sun or in a warm, well-ventilated shed until the skins are papery and the necks fully dry. Store only perfect, undamaged bulbs in net bags or trays in a single layer somewhere light, cool, dry and airy; well-cured shallots keep for at least six to eight months. Save a few of the best bulbs to replant next season. |
Harvest & Storage
Diseases
Pests
Shallots, Set to Store
References
-
Tier 1. Primary UK source: sets planted tip-just-showing, 15-20cm apart in rows 25-30cm; seed 1.5cm deep in rows 25cm thinned to 10cm; early-to-mid-spring (some autumn/winter) planting; weeding, watering (stop once bulbs swollen), flower-stem removal; harvest when leaves flop; curing ~2 weeks; net-bag storage 6-8 months.
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Tier 1. Extension corroboration: shallots are multiplier alliums grown from sets that divide into clusters; full sun, well-drained soil; lift when tops die down and cure before storage.
-
Tier 1. Host-specific: serious soil-borne disease of onions, shallots, garlic and leeks; sclerotia survive 15+ years; no chemical control for gardeners.
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Tier 1. Host-specific storage disease that can cause severe losses of onion and shallot bulbs; symptoms usually appear only after weeks in store.
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Tier 1. Host-specific foliar disease (Peronospora destructor) favoured by cool, wet, humid weather.
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Tier 1. Rust of alliums including shallots; usually mainly cosmetic but heavy attacks reduce vigour.
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Tier 1. Host-specific pest: larvae mine leaves; secondary rots make the crop inedible; widespread across England since 2002.
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Tier 1. Host-specific pest: maggots damage roots and bulbs; seedlings can be killed; most damaging June-July.
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Tier 1. Host-specific pest of alliums: caterpillars mine leaves and bulbs; mainly southern/eastern England and spreading.
-
Tier 1. UK climate context for the south-to-north spring gradient used to derive regional planting windows.
-
Tier 1. International agronomic ranges (temperature, pH) for the shallot (Aggregatum Group).
11 independent sources are cited for this crop. Where they disagree - soil pH is the clearest case - every figure is preserved rather than averaged into false precision.
Frequently Asked Questions
When should I plant shallots out in the UK?
In southern England, from mid February. In northern England and Scotland, wait until mid March. Treat these as a guide rather than a fixed date — the governing rule is to plant out only once frost risk has passed and temperatures are reliably warm enough.
When do I sow shallots?
Sow mid January to late March.
How long do shallots take to grow?
Typically 90–120 days, depending on cultivar and growing conditions.
What soil pH do shallots need?
A pH of about 6–7. That span reflects genuine variation between the authorities we cite rather than a single agreed figure — the References section lists each source's exact range.
What problems affect shallots?
Our data links 4 diseases and 3 pests to this crop. See the sections above for each one and how to manage it.
Plan next season before the problems start
Most of the advice on this page comes down to timing and spacing — sowing at the right moment, rotating beds, and giving plants enough airflow. The UK Garden Planner lays your plot out month by month so those decisions are already made before the season starts.
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