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How to Grow Strawberries USA | Care, Pests & Disease Control

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Strawberry (Fragaria x ananassa)

Ripe red strawberries ripening on the plant in a garden bed. Photo: Alabama Extension, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons.

Also known as: Garden strawberry, Cultivated strawberry · 21 sources cited · Verified

The short answer

Ready in
180–270 days
Site
8+ hours of sun, soil pH 5.8–6.5
Biggest risk
Grey mould

In the UK, strawberries are ready to harvest 180–270 days after planting.

Strawberries (Fragaria x ananassa) — Herbaceous perennial.

This crop carries an unusually heavy problem load: 4 diseases, 5 pests and 4 nutrient issues are documented for it, so most of the effort in growing it well goes into prevention.

Core growing advice on this page is checked against named horticultural and university-extension sources — see References.

Diseases

Fuzzy grey-brown Botrytis mould covering a tomato stem — Rasbak, CC BY-SA 3.0
Rasbak, CC BY-SA 3.0
Grey mould
common

Botrytis cinerea

Soft brown fruit decay; Fuzzy grey-brown mould

RHS: "Fruit prone to grey moulds" on strawberry. Especially relevant because of Botrytis' latent-infection biology in strawberry fruit specifically (see disease_cycle).

Root rot (strawberry, causal agent not yet confirmed)
common

RHS strawberry profile: "may be susceptible to... root rot". Causal agent not specified on the page fetched this session (candidates include Phytophthora fragariae / red core, but this was NOT confirmed and must not be…

Strawberry virus diseases
common

Various viruses (strawberry virus complex)

RHS strawberry profile: "may be susceptible to strawberry viruses" (plural, unspecified which). Not further identified this session -- flagged for future research rather than guessed.

Verticillium wilt
high

Verticillium dahliae

Strawberry is explicitly named as a genus most frequently diagnosed with Verticillium wilt in RHS case data.

Pests

common

Aphididae (various spp.)

RHS strawberry profile: susceptible to aphids

Slugs
common

Gastropoda (slugs, various spp.)

RHS strawberry profile: susceptible to slugs

Snails
common

Gastropoda (snails, various spp.)

RHS strawberry profile: susceptible to snails

Vine weevil
common

Otiorhynchus sulcatus

RHS strawberry profile: susceptible to vine weevil (a well-known strawberry/container-fruit pest)

Two-spotted red spider mite with silk threads, magnified — Gilles San Martin, CC BY-SA 2.0
Gilles San Martin, CC BY-SA 2.0
Glasshouse red spider mite (two-spotted spider mite)
occasional

Tetranychus urticae

RHS strawberry profile: susceptible to glasshouse red spider mite

Nutrient Issues

Potassium (K)

deficiency

Marginal necrosis/scorch, older leaves (potassium-pattern)

Correction

Soil-test-based potassium fertilisation (potassium sulfate/chloride, organic potash sources); pre-plant incorporation since K is relatively soil-immobile; fertigation/topdress during season.

Iron (Fe)

deficiency (pH-induced availability, not true soil scarcity)

Interveinal chlorosis, young leaves, veins remain green (iron-pattern)

Correction

Lower soil pH with sulfur where practical (ineffective if free lime/carbonate present); chelated iron via soil or foliar application (foliar effect temporary, ~10-21 day reapplication per USU).

Boron (B)

deficiency

Young-leaf tip necrosis with cupping and fruit distortion (boron-pattern)

Correction

Soil-test-based pre-plant boron (borax/Granubor); foliar Solubor sprays at early bloom or late summer per tissue test; narrow margin to toxicity so avoid over-application.

Magnesium (Mg)

deficiency

Correction

Standard magnesium correction (e.g. Epsom salt foliar/soil application); same nutrient entity already linked to tomato, now reused for a second flagship crop.

Quick Facts

Factor Value
Soil pH 5.8 - 6.5
Sunlight 8-8 hours direct sun
Optimal growing temp 11-24C
Minimum survivable temp -20C
Time to harvest 180-270 days
Soil texture loam
Drainage moist but well-drained
Lifecycle Herbaceous perennial (RHS). Time to maturity 1-2 years (RHS). Distinct from tomato's dispute: no annual/perennial ambiguity here, both RHS and GBIF/WFO/POWO treat this cleanly as a perennial.
Edible parts fruit

At a Glance

Fragaria x ananassa Strawberry Grey mould Root rot (strawberry, c… Strawberry virus diseas… Verticillium wilt Aphids Slugs Snails Vine weevil Glasshouse red spider m… DISEASES PESTS

When to plant in the USA

United States. Strawberries are planted as dormant bare-root crowns in early spring, and Utah State is explicit that because the plants are dormant there is no need to wait until the risk of spring frost has passed — so this crop does not time off the frost date the way a transplanted vegetable does. Set the crown so only the roots and its base are covered, leaving as much of the crown above ground as possible; planting too deep is the commonest cause of failure. Matted row: 18-24 in apart with rows 3-4 ft apart. Annual hill: 12-15 in apart in staggered rows. June-bearers give their first real crop in the spring of the second growing season. The frost risk that does matter comes later — open blossoms are killed by late spring frost, taking the earliest and largest berries with them, so cover blooming plants on cold nights.

Soil & Growing Conditions

An established bed of strawberry plants in a garden border, mulched and in leaf with ripening fruit — "Strawberry plant with ripening strawberries, Oak Hill, Virginia" by Famartin is licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0. Source: Wikimedia Commons
Strawberry plant with ripening strawberries, Oak Hill, Virginia” by Famartin is licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0. Source: Wikimedia Commons.

Water: 1-1.5 inches per week mid-June to mid-August (OSU); moist but well-drained, sensitive to excessive soil moisture (RHS + OSU agree)

Soil pH range

5.8 6.5

Span reflects genuine variation between the cited authorities, not a single agreed figure.

Growth Stages

Stage BBCH Notes
Establishment 0 Grow from runners (bare-root or cold-stored) or pot-grown plants rather than from seed. Plant with the base of the crown resting right at the soil surface: bury the crown and it rots, set it too high and the roots dry out (RHS). Space plants about 35-40cm (14-16in) apart in rows about 75cm (30in) apart, or about 20cm apart in containers (RHS); matted-row systems set plants wider and let runners fill in (Ohio State). Choose a sunny, sheltered site with fertile, moist but free-draining soil enriched with well-rotted compost, and avoid ground where strawberries, potatoes or tomatoes grew recently because they share verticillium wilt. Planting in late summer or early autumn (Aug-Oct) establishes plants before winter for a full crop the following June; spring planting gives a lighter first-year crop. Water in well and keep moist while establishing (time to a first full crop is about 1-2 years).
Vegetative Growth 1 Plants form a low rosette of trifoliate leaves and send out runners (stolons) that root into new plantlets. Remove unwanted runners through the season to prevent overcrowding and keep energy in the parent plant; peg down a few healthy runners in late summer if you want new plants for next year (RHS). Water regularly in dry spells, watering in the morning and keeping water off the crown, and keep beds weed-free. On spring-planted strawberries, pinch off the first flush of flowers in the first year so the plant builds strong roots and leaves before cropping (Ohio State first-year blossom removal).
Flowering 6 White (sometimes pink-flushed) flowers open in spring, typically April to May, and are pollinated by bees and other insects; good pollination gives well-shaped berries (RHS). Flower buds and open flowers are frost-sensitive, so cover plants with horticultural fleece overnight when spring frost is forecast and remove it by day so pollinators can reach the flowers (RHS; Met Office notes late frosts remain a UK risk into spring). As the first flower buds form, switch from a balanced feed to a high-potassium (tomato-type) feed to support fruiting rather than leafy growth.
Fruit Development 7 Fertilised flowers swell into green berries that enlarge and begin to colour. Tuck a layer of straw (the origin of the name strawberry) or strawberry mats under the developing fruit once berries form, to keep them off damp soil and reduce grey mould and slug damage (RHS). Water consistently while fruit is swelling because irregular watering causes small, misshapen or split fruit, but avoid wetting the ripening berries. Net plants or use a fruit cage as berries start to colour, since birds are the single biggest threat to a UK strawberry crop (RHS).
Ripening / Harvest 8 Pick berries when they are bright red all over, ideally during the warmest part of the day when flavour is best, checking plants every 2-3 days at the peak (RHS). June-bearing types crop heavily over about 2-3 weeks from late May or June; everbearing and day-neutral types crop in smaller flushes from summer into autumn (Ohio State; OSU Extension). Strawberries are highly perishable, so eat or refrigerate them promptly and freeze or make jam with any surplus.
Senescence / Dormancy 9 After the main summer harvest, renovate the bed: cut old foliage back to about 10cm, remove the straw mulch and any diseased leaves, and give a light feed to drive strong new growth for next year (RHS). Take the straw off in autumn so it does not harbour fungal diseases, slugs and snails over winter (RHS). Strawberries are hardy (RHS H6, about -20 to -15C) and go dormant over winter, but yield declines after about three to four fruiting years, so start a fresh bed in a different spot using runners from your healthiest plants (RHS; Ohio State).

Harvest & Storage

Picking ripe strawberries into a bowl from grow-bag plants — "Person picks strawberries in a garden during the day" by Shixart1985 is licensed under CC BY 2.0. Source: Wikimedia Commons
Person picks strawberries in a garden during the day” by Shixart1985 is licensed under CC BY 2.0. Source: Wikimedia Commons.

When to pick: June-bearing types crop heavily over 2-3 weeks in early summer (early June-early August window across early/mid/late cultivars); everbearing/day-neutral types crop in smaller flushes from late spring into early autumn (RHS + OSU Extension agree on the conceptual framework). Established plantings remain productive for around 3-4 harvest years before yield declines and renovation/replanting is recommended (OSU Extension).

Storage

Highly perishable: best eaten fresh soon after picking. Refrigerate unwashed and use within a few days, or freeze/preserve (for example as jam) any surplus.

Companion Planting

Borage
beneficial

Borago officinalis

Pollinator attraction

Gardener planting tomato seedlings beside a greenhouse — Maasaak, CC BY-SA 4.0
Maasaak, CC BY-SA 4.0
avoid shared disease

Solanum lycopersicum

Not a beneficial pairing -- this is a warning. Avoid planting strawberries in ground recently occupied by tomatoes, or the reverse, because both are highly susceptible to Verticillium wilt. RHS UK Advisory Service case records name both Fragaria and Solanum among the most frequently diagnosed…

Pollination

Pollinating insects (bees and other flower visitors)

RHS "Plants for pollinators" tag; "The flowers attract pollinating insects" (RHS profile page). Specific pollinator species not named by the source.

References

  1. Fetched by research subagent.

  2. Peer-reviewed; abstract fetched directly by research subagent from University of Sussex repository. Researcher-led trial + UK-wide citizen-science replication.

  3. country=INTL

  4. country=INTL

  5. Qualitative only: southern/coastal last air frost often before end of April; further north well into May, in a few places into June. No numeric per-region frost dates published here.

  6. Fetched by research subagent.

  7. Fetched by research subagent.

  8. Fetched by research subagent; published 2014-04-10.

  9. country=USA

  10. Fetched by research subagent; contains quantitative soil/tissue sufficiency tables.

  11. country=UK

  12. country=UK

  13. country=UK

  14. Fetched by research subagent; checked directly for companion-planting mentions (none found).

  15. Fetched by research subagent; general cross-plant guide, strawberry named explicitly under Boron.

  16. Fetched by research subagent; based on RHS Advisory Service case records since 1996.

  17. country=USA

  18. Fetched by research subagent; 2016-2018 field trials.

  19. Fetched by research subagent.

  20. Tier 1. US extension source: dormant bare-root plants are transplanted in early spring and, being dormant, need no wait for spring frost risk to pass; cover only the roots and the base of the crown, leaving as much crown above ground as possible; matted row 18-24 in in the row with rows 3-4 ft apart, annual hill 12-15 in staggered; June-bearers crop in the spring of the second growing season; blossoms are susceptible to late spring frost and should be covered on cold nights; irrigate every 3-5 days in summer heat; renovate immediately after harvest.

  21. country=INTL

21 independent sources are cited for this crop. Where they disagree - soil pH is the clearest case - every figure is preserved rather than averaged into false precision.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long do strawberries take to grow?

Typically 180–270 days, depending on cultivar and growing conditions.

What soil pH do strawberries need?

A pH of about 5.8–6.5. That span reflects genuine variation between the authorities we cite rather than a single agreed figure — the References section lists each source's exact range.

What problems affect strawberries?

Our data links 4 diseases and 5 pests to this crop. See the sections above for each one and how to manage it.

Plan next season before the problems start

Almost everything on this page resolves to your own frost dates rather than the calendar — the last spring frost moves by roughly two months between zone 3 and zone 10. The USA Garden Planner works from your zone so the timing is already decided before the season starts.

Get the USA Garden Planner →

Instant PDF download · Written for US growing conditions

SoilCommander Editorial Team

US vegetable growing guides · Checked against USDA & Cooperative Extension guidance

Every SoilCommander guide is written and maintained by our editorial team for real US growing conditions, and checked against USDA hardiness and frost-date data and Cooperative Extension growing advice before publication.

Vegetable Growing Guides USA

Last verified 2026-07-27

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