How to Grow Strawberries UK

On this page
  1. Strawberry (Fragaria x ananassa)
  2. When to Plant Strawberries in the UK
  3. Quick Facts
  4. At a Glance
  5. Soil & Growing Conditions
  6. Growth Stages
  7. Harvest & Storage
  8. Diseases
  9. Pests
  10. Nutrient Issues
  11. Companion Planting
  12. Pollination
  13. Strawberries, Planting to Harvest
  14. Plan your Strawberries planting
  15. Growing Strawberry in another region
  16. References
  17. Frequently Asked Questions

In the UK, strawberries planted out early September to late October, and are ready to harvest 180–270 days after sowing.

Timing is the decision that matters most in the UK: there are 4 separate regional planting out windows, ranging from late August in Northern England to early September in Midlands.

The short answer

Plant out
Early September to late October
Ready in
180–270 days
Site
8+ hours of sun
Biggest risk
Grey mould

Core growing advice on this page is checked against named horticultural sources — see References.

Strawberry (Fragaria x ananassa)

Ripe red strawberries ripening on the plant in a garden bed. Photo: Alabama Extension, CC0

Also known as: Garden strawberry, Cultivated strawberry · 21 sources cited · Verified

When to Plant Strawberries in the UK

When to plant strawberries in the UK: in Southern England, plant out early September to late October. Find your area in the table below.

Region Plant out
Southern England early September to late October
Midlands derived early September to late October
Northern England derived late August to mid October
Scotland derived late August to late September

Rows marked derived are interpolated between regions our sources do state, because no source we consulted gives a figure for that region specifically. They are deliberately wider to reflect that uncertainty.

Southern England - detail & sources

RHS: plant in late summer or early autumn for a full crop the following June, the recommended UK method. Southern England has the mildest autumn and latest first frosts in the UK (Met Office), so the autumn planting window runs latest here, into late October. Potted plants can alternatively be planted in spring (March to April) for a lighter first-year crop.

Midlands - detail & sources

DERIVED: interpolated from the RHS late-summer to early-autumn planting window, brought a little earlier than southern England so plants establish before colder Midlands winters (Met Office south-to-north gradient). Spring planting (late March to April) is the alternative for a lighter first-year crop.

Northern England - detail & sources

DERIVED: interpolated earlier than the Midlands; plant autumn stock from late August so plants root before harder northern winters (Met Office notes earlier first frosts further north). Spring planting shifts to April here. Based on the RHS late-summer to early-autumn window.

Scotland - detail & sources

DERIVED: Scotland has the shortest, earliest-closing autumn planting window in the UK (late August to September) so plants establish before winter (Met Office). Spring planting from April is the main alternative. Based on the RHS late-summer to early-autumn planting method.

A page from the UK Vegetable Garden Planner PDF: the crop rotation planner, with a planning grid and four-bed rotation tips

Plan your strawberries — and the rest of the plot

This page covers strawberries. For every crop's sowing months on one chart, use the free UK vegetable planting calendar, and browse the UK vegetable growing guides for what else to grow alongside it. When you want the whole season on paper, the UK Vegetable Garden Planner is a printable PDF:

  • Twelve month-by-month sowing and harvest spreads
  • Raised bed, allotment and container layout pages for your own plot
  • A four-year crop rotation planner
  • Seed inventory, sowing log and harvest tracker
See inside the UK Vegetable Garden Planner →

Instant PDF download · reprint every season

Quick Facts

Factor Value
Sunlight 8-8 hours direct sun
Time to harvest 180-270 days
Soil texture loam
Drainage moist but well-drained
Lifecycle Herbaceous perennial (RHS). Time to maturity 1-2 years (RHS). Distinct from tomato's dispute: no annual/perennial ambiguity here, both RHS and GBIF/WFO/POWO treat this cleanly as a perennial.
Edible parts fruit

At a Glance

Fragaria x ananassa Strawberry Grey mould Strawberry virus diseas… Verticillium wilt Root rot (strawberry, c… Glasshouse red spider m… Aphids Vine weevil Snails Slugs DISEASES PESTS

Soil & Growing Conditions

An established bed of strawberry plants in a garden border, mulched and in leaf with ripening fruit — “Strawberry plant with ripening strawberries, Oak Hill, Virginia” by Famartin is licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0.
“Strawberry plant with ripening strawberries, Oak Hill, Virginia” by Famartin is licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0.

Water: 1-1.5 inches per week mid-June to mid-August (OSU); moist but well-drained, sensitive to excessive soil moisture (RHS + OSU agree)

Growth Stages

Stage BBCH Notes
Establishment 0 Grow from runners (bare-root or cold-stored) or pot-grown plants rather than from seed. Plant with the base of the crown resting right at the soil surface: bury the crown and it rots, set it too high and the roots dry out (RHS). Space plants about 35-40cm (14-16in) apart in rows about 75cm (30in) apart, or about 20cm apart in containers (RHS); matted-row systems set plants wider and let runners fill in (Ohio State). Choose a sunny, sheltered site with fertile, moist but free-draining soil enriched with well-rotted compost, and avoid ground where strawberries, potatoes or tomatoes grew recently because they share verticillium wilt. Planting in late summer or early autumn (Aug-Oct) establishes plants before winter for a full crop the following June; spring planting gives a lighter first-year crop. Water in well and keep moist while establishing (time to a first full crop is about 1-2 years).
Vegetative Growth 1 Plants form a low rosette of trifoliate leaves and send out runners (stolons) that root into new plantlets. Remove unwanted runners through the season to prevent overcrowding and keep energy in the parent plant; peg down a few healthy runners in late summer if you want new plants for next year (RHS). Water regularly in dry spells, watering in the morning and keeping water off the crown, and keep beds weed-free. On spring-planted strawberries, pinch off the first flush of flowers in the first year so the plant builds strong roots and leaves before cropping (Ohio State first-year blossom removal).
Flowering 6 White (sometimes pink-flushed) flowers open in spring, typically April to May, and are pollinated by bees and other insects; good pollination gives well-shaped berries (RHS). Flower buds and open flowers are frost-sensitive, so cover plants with horticultural fleece overnight when spring frost is forecast and remove it by day so pollinators can reach the flowers (RHS; Met Office notes late frosts remain a UK risk into spring). As the first flower buds form, switch from a balanced feed to a high-potassium (tomato-type) feed to support fruiting rather than leafy growth.
Fruit Development 7 Fertilised flowers swell into green berries that enlarge and begin to colour. Tuck a layer of straw (the origin of the name strawberry) or strawberry mats under the developing fruit once berries form, to keep them off damp soil and reduce grey mould and slug damage (RHS). Water consistently while fruit is swelling because irregular watering causes small, misshapen or split fruit, but avoid wetting the ripening berries. Net plants or use a fruit cage as berries start to colour, since birds are the single biggest threat to a UK strawberry crop (RHS).
Ripening / Harvest 8 Pick berries when they are bright red all over, ideally during the warmest part of the day when flavour is best, checking plants every 2-3 days at the peak (RHS). June-bearing types crop heavily over about 2-3 weeks from late May or June; everbearing and day-neutral types crop in smaller flushes from summer into autumn (Ohio State; OSU Extension). Strawberries are highly perishable, so eat or refrigerate them promptly and freeze or make jam with any surplus.
Senescence / Dormancy 9 After the main summer harvest, renovate the bed: cut old foliage back to about 10cm, remove the straw mulch and any diseased leaves, and give a light feed to drive strong new growth for next year (RHS). Take the straw off in autumn so it does not harbour fungal diseases, slugs and snails over winter (RHS). Strawberries are hardy (RHS H6, about -20 to -15°C) and go dormant over winter, but yield declines after about three to four fruiting years, so start a fresh bed in a different spot using runners from your healthiest plants (RHS; Ohio State).

Harvest & Storage

Picking ripe strawberries into a bowl from grow-bag plants — “Person picks strawberries in a garden during the day” by Shixart1985 is licensed under CC BY 2.0.
“Person picks strawberries in a garden during the day” by Shixart1985 is licensed under CC BY 2.0.

When to pick: June-bearing types crop heavily over 2-3 weeks in early summer (early June-early August window across early/mid/late cultivars); everbearing/day-neutral types crop in smaller flushes from late spring into early autumn (RHS + OSU Extension agree on the conceptual framework). Established plantings remain productive for around 3-4 harvest years before yield declines and renovation/replanting is recommended (OSU Extension).

Storage

Highly perishable: best eaten fresh soon after picking. Refrigerate unwashed and use within a few days, or freeze/preserve (for example as jam) any surplus.

Diseases

Fuzzy grey-brown Botrytis mould covering a tomato stem — Rasbak, CC BY-SA 3.0
Rasbak, CC BY-SA 3.0
Grey mould
common

Botrytis cinerea

Soft brown fruit decay; Fuzzy grey-brown mould

RHS: "Fruit prone to grey moulds" on strawberry. Especially relevant because of Botrytis' latent-infection biology in strawberry fruit specifically (see disease_cycle).

Strawberry virus diseases
common

Various viruses (strawberry virus complex)

RHS strawberry profile: "may be susceptible to strawberry viruses" (plural, unspecified which). Not further identified this session -- flagged for future research rather than guessed.

Verticillium wilt
high

Verticillium dahliae

Strawberry is explicitly named as a genus most frequently diagnosed with Verticillium wilt in RHS case data.

Root rot (strawberry, causal agent not yet confirmed)
common

RHS strawberry profile: "may be susceptible to... root rot". Causal agent not specified on the page fetched this session (candidates include Phytophthora fragariae / red core, but this was NOT confirmed and must not be…

Pests

Two-spotted red spider mite with silk threads, magnified — Gilles San Martin, CC BY-SA 2.0
Gilles San Martin, CC BY-SA 2.0
Glasshouse red spider mite (two-spotted spider mite)
occasional

Tetranychus urticae

RHS strawberry profile: susceptible to glasshouse red spider mite

common

Aphididae (various spp.)

RHS strawberry profile: susceptible to aphids

Vine weevil
common

Otiorhynchus sulcatus

RHS strawberry profile: susceptible to vine weevil (a well-known strawberry/container-fruit pest)

Snails
common

Gastropoda (snails, various spp.)

RHS strawberry profile: susceptible to snails

Slugs
common

Gastropoda (slugs, various spp.)

RHS strawberry profile: susceptible to slugs

Nutrient Issues

Potassium (K)

deficiency

Marginal necrosis/scorch, older leaves (potassium-pattern)

Correction

Soil-test-based potassium fertilisation (potassium sulfate/chloride, organic potash sources); pre-plant incorporation since K is relatively soil-immobile; fertigation/topdress during season.

Iron (Fe)

deficiency (pH-induced availability, not true soil scarcity)

Interveinal chlorosis, young leaves, veins remain green (iron-pattern)

Correction

Lower soil pH with sulfur where practical (ineffective if free lime/carbonate present); chelated iron via soil or foliar application (foliar effect temporary, ~10-21 day reapplication per USU).

Boron (B)

deficiency

Young-leaf tip necrosis with cupping and fruit distortion (boron-pattern)

Correction

Soil-test-based pre-plant boron (borax/Granubor); foliar Solubor sprays at early bloom or late summer per tissue test; narrow margin to toxicity so avoid over-application.

Magnesium (Mg)

deficiency

Correction

Standard magnesium correction (e.g. Epsom salt foliar/soil application); same nutrient entity already linked to tomato, now reused for a second flagship crop.

Companion Planting

beneficial

Borago officinalis

Pollinator attraction

Gardener planting tomato seedlings beside a greenhouse — Maasaak, CC BY-SA 4.0
Maasaak, CC BY-SA 4.0
avoid shared disease

Solanum lycopersicum

Not a beneficial pairing -- this is a warning. Avoid planting strawberries in ground recently occupied by tomatoes, or the reverse, because both are highly susceptible to Verticillium wilt. RHS UK Advisory Service case records name both Fragaria and Solanum among the most frequently diagnosed…

Pollination

Pollinating insects (bees and other flower visitors)

RHS "Plants for pollinators" tag; "The flowers attract pollinating insects" (RHS profile page). Specific pollinator species not named by the source.

Plan your Strawberries planting

When to sow and plant Strawberries depends on your own frost dates. Check the UK vegetable planting calendar, or the month-by-month guides that cover Strawberries: April, June, July. To work out where it fits in your beds, sketch your plot in the free Garden Layout Planner.

Growing Strawberry in another region

Planting dates, frost timing and local advice differ by country. Use the guide for where you garden.

References

  1. Peer-reviewed; abstract fetched directly by research subagent from University of Sussex repository. Researcher-led trial + UK-wide citizen-science replication.

  2. Qualitative only: southern/coastal last air frost often before end of April; further north well into May, in a few places into June. No numeric per-region frost dates published here.

  3. Published 2014-04-10.

  4. Contains quantitative soil/tissue sufficiency tables.

  5. Checked directly for companion-planting mentions (none found).

  6. General cross-plant guide, strawberry named explicitly under Boron.

  7. Based on RHS Advisory Service case records since 1996.

  8. 2016-2018 field trials.

  9. US extension source: dormant bare-root plants are transplanted in early spring and, being dormant, need no wait for spring frost risk to pass; cover only the roots and the base of the crown, leaving as much crown above ground as possible; matted row 18-24 in in the row with rows 3-4 ft apart, annual hill 12-15 in staggered; June-bearers crop in the spring of the second growing season; blossoms are susceptible to late spring frost and should be covered on cold nights; irrigate every 3-5 days in summer heat; renovate immediately after harvest.

21 independent sources are cited for this crop. Where they disagree - soil pH is the clearest case - every figure is preserved rather than averaged into false precision.

Frequently Asked Questions

When should I plant strawberries out in the UK?

In Northern England, from late August. In Midlands, wait until early September. Treat these as a guide rather than a fixed date — the governing rule is to plant out only once frost risk has passed and temperatures are reliably warm enough.

How long do strawberries take to grow?

Typically 180–270 days, depending on cultivar and growing conditions.

What problems affect strawberries?

Our data links 4 diseases and 5 pests to this crop. See the sections above for each one and how to manage it.

Plan next season before the problems start

Most of the advice on this page comes down to timing and spacing — planting at the right moment, rotating beds, and giving plants enough airflow. The UK Garden Planner lays your plot out month by month so those decisions are already made before the season starts.

Get the UK Garden Planner →

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SoilCommander Editorial Team — under the guidance of Nitin Sharma, Co-Founder

Every growing guide is checked against RHS, USDA Cooperative Extension, and other named horticultural authorities before publishing. How we check our facts.

How this guide is put together

The growing data on this page — planting windows, pests, diseases, soil and site requirements — comes from named horticultural sources, listed in References below, checked against RHS and Met Office guidance. An automated pipeline assembles that verified data into the page you're reading: it selects which facts to lead with and builds the surrounding prose and layout. It does not invent a date, a source or a number — where a verified value for a field isn't available, the page leaves it out rather than guessing. A person reviews and publishes each page; nothing goes live unverified.

Vegetable Growing Guides UK

Last verified 2026-07-27

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This guide in another region
Top tips for October
  • Plant garlic before hard frosts
  • Protect late salads with fleece
  • Store squash somewhere dry
  • Mulch empty beds
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