How to Grow Strawberries Canada

On this page
  1. Strawberry (Fragaria x ananassa)
  2. Quick Facts
  3. At a Glance
  4. Diseases
  5. Pests
  6. Nutrient Issues
  7. When to plant in Canada
  8. Soil & Growing Conditions
  9. Growth Stages
  10. Harvest & Storage
  11. Companion Planting
  12. Pollination
  13. Plan your Strawberries planting
  14. Growing Strawberry in another region
  15. Sources
  16. Frequently Asked Questions

In Canada, strawberries go in as dormant bare-root crowns as early as the ground can be worked in spring — since the plants are dormant, frost risk isn't what determines planting time; it's the later flowering stage that needs frost protection. June-bearing types crop in their second growing season.

The short answer

Ready in
180–270 days
Site
8+ hours of sun
Biggest risk
Grey mould

Core growing advice on this page is checked against named horticultural sources — see References.

Strawberry (Fragaria x ananassa)

Ripe red strawberries ripening on the plant in a garden bed. Photo: Alabama Extension, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons.

Also known as: Garden strawberry, Cultivated strawberry · 21 sources cited · Verified

Quick Facts

Factor Value
Sunlight 8-8 hours direct sun
Time to harvest 180-270 days
Soil texture loam
Drainage moist but well-drained
Lifecycle Herbaceous perennial (RHS). Time to maturity 1-2 years (RHS). Distinct from tomato's dispute: no annual/perennial ambiguity here, both RHS and GBIF/WFO/POWO treat this cleanly as a perennial.
Edible parts fruit
Documented problems 4 diseases, 5 pests, 4 nutrient issues

At a Glance

Fragaria x ananassa Strawberry Grey mould Strawberry virus diseas… Verticillium wilt Root rot (strawberry, c… Glasshouse red spider m… Aphids Vine weevil Snails Slugs DISEASES PESTS

Diseases

Fuzzy grey-brown Botrytis mould covering a tomato stem — Rasbak, CC BY-SA 3.0
Rasbak, CC BY-SA 3.0
Grey mould
common

Botrytis cinerea

Soft brown fruit decay; Fuzzy grey-brown mould

RHS: "Fruit prone to grey moulds" on strawberry. Especially relevant because of Botrytis' latent-infection biology in strawberry fruit specifically (see disease_cycle).

Strawberry virus diseases
common

Various viruses (strawberry virus complex)

RHS strawberry profile: "may be susceptible to strawberry viruses" (plural, unspecified which). Not further identified this session -- flagged for future research rather than guessed.

Verticillium wilt
high

Verticillium dahliae

Strawberry is explicitly named as a genus most frequently diagnosed with Verticillium wilt in RHS case data.

Root rot (strawberry, causal agent not yet confirmed)
common

RHS strawberry profile: "may be susceptible to... root rot". Causal agent not specified on the page fetched this session (candidates include Phytophthora fragariae / red core, but this was NOT confirmed and must not be…

Pests

Two-spotted red spider mite with silk threads, magnified — Gilles San Martin, CC BY-SA 2.0
Gilles San Martin, CC BY-SA 2.0
Glasshouse red spider mite (two-spotted spider mite)
occasional

Tetranychus urticae

RHS strawberry profile: susceptible to glasshouse red spider mite

common

Aphididae (various spp.)

RHS strawberry profile: susceptible to aphids

Vine weevil
common

Otiorhynchus sulcatus

RHS strawberry profile: susceptible to vine weevil (a well-known strawberry/container-fruit pest)

Snails
common

Gastropoda (snails, various spp.)

RHS strawberry profile: susceptible to snails

Slugs
common

Gastropoda (slugs, various spp.)

RHS strawberry profile: susceptible to slugs

Nutrient Issues

Potassium (K)

deficiency

Marginal necrosis/scorch, older leaves (potassium-pattern)

Correction

Soil-test-based potassium fertilisation (potassium sulfate/chloride, organic potash sources); pre-plant incorporation since K is relatively soil-immobile; fertigation/topdress during season.

Iron (Fe)

deficiency (pH-induced availability, not true soil scarcity)

Interveinal chlorosis, young leaves, veins remain green (iron-pattern)

Correction

Lower soil pH with sulfur where practical (ineffective if free lime/carbonate present); chelated iron via soil or foliar application (foliar effect temporary, ~10-21 day reapplication per USU).

Boron (B)

deficiency

Young-leaf tip necrosis with cupping and fruit distortion (boron-pattern)

Correction

Soil-test-based pre-plant boron (borax/Granubor); foliar Solubor sprays at early bloom or late summer per tissue test; narrow margin to toxicity so avoid over-application.

Magnesium (Mg)

deficiency

Correction

Standard magnesium correction (e.g. Epsom salt foliar/soil application); same nutrient entity already linked to tomato, now reused for a second flagship crop.

When to plant in Canada

Canada. Strawberries go in as dormant bare-root crowns as early as the ground can be worked, rather than after the last frost: the plants are dormant when set, so frost risk is not what gates planting. Set the crown at the soil surface — roots and crown base covered, the rest of the crown proud — since planting too deep rots the crown. Matted row spacing 45-60 cm with rows 90-120 cm apart. The frost that matters in Canada is not at planting but at flowering: open blossoms are killed by a late spring frost, which removes the earliest and largest berries, so keep fleece to hand once flowering starts. June-bearers crop in their second growing season.

Soil & Growing Conditions

An established bed of strawberry plants in a garden border, mulched and in leaf with ripening fruit — “Strawberry plant with ripening strawberries, Oak Hill, Virginia” by Famartin is licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0. Source: Wikimedia Commons
“Strawberry plant with ripening strawberries, Oak Hill, Virginia” by Famartin is licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0. Source: Wikimedia Commons.

Water: 1-1.5 inches per week mid-June to mid-August (OSU); moist but well-drained, sensitive to excessive soil moisture (RHS + OSU agree)

Growth Stages

Stage BBCH Notes
Establishment 0 Grow from runners (bare-root or cold-stored) or pot-grown plants rather than from seed. Plant with the base of the crown resting right at the soil surface: bury the crown and it rots, set it too high and the roots dry out (RHS). Space plants about 35-40cm (14-16in) apart in rows about 75cm (30in) apart, or about 20cm apart in containers (RHS); matted-row systems set plants wider and let runners fill in (Ohio State). Choose a sunny, sheltered site with fertile, moist but free-draining soil enriched with well-rotted compost, and avoid ground where strawberries, potatoes or tomatoes grew recently because they share verticillium wilt. Planting in late summer or early autumn (Aug-Oct) establishes plants before winter for a full crop the following June; spring planting gives a lighter first-year crop. Water in well and keep moist while establishing (time to a first full crop is about 1-2 years).
Vegetative Growth 1 Plants form a low rosette of trifoliate leaves and send out runners (stolons) that root into new plantlets. Remove unwanted runners through the season to prevent overcrowding and keep energy in the parent plant; peg down a few healthy runners in late summer if you want new plants for next year (RHS). Water regularly in dry spells, watering in the morning and keeping water off the crown, and keep beds weed-free. On spring-planted strawberries, pinch off the first flush of flowers in the first year so the plant builds strong roots and leaves before cropping (Ohio State first-year blossom removal).
Flowering 6 White (sometimes pink-flushed) flowers open in spring, typically April to May, and are pollinated by bees and other insects; good pollination gives well-shaped berries (RHS). As the first flower buds form, switch from a balanced feed to a high-potassium (tomato-type) feed to support fruiting rather than leafy growth.
Fruit Development 7 Fertilised flowers swell into green berries that enlarge and begin to colour. Tuck a layer of straw (the origin of the name strawberry) or strawberry mats under the developing fruit once berries form, to keep them off damp soil and reduce grey mould and slug damage (RHS). Water consistently while fruit is swelling because irregular watering causes small, misshapen or split fruit, but avoid wetting the ripening berries. Net plants or use a fruit cage as berries start to colour, since birds are the single biggest threat to a UK strawberry crop (RHS).
Ripening / Harvest 8 Pick berries when they are bright red all over, ideally during the warmest part of the day when flavour is best, checking plants every 2-3 days at the peak (RHS). June-bearing types crop heavily over about 2-3 weeks from late May or June; everbearing and day-neutral types crop in smaller flushes from summer into autumn (Ohio State; OSU Extension). Strawberries are highly perishable, so eat or refrigerate them promptly and freeze or make jam with any surplus.
Senescence / Dormancy 9 After the main summer harvest, renovate the bed: cut old foliage back to about 10cm, remove the straw mulch and any diseased leaves, and give a light feed to drive strong new growth for next year (RHS). Take the straw off in autumn so it does not harbour fungal diseases, slugs and snails over winter (RHS).

Harvest & Storage

Picking ripe strawberries into a bowl from grow-bag plants — “Person picks strawberries in a garden during the day” by Shixart1985 is licensed under CC BY 2.0. Source: Wikimedia Commons
“Person picks strawberries in a garden during the day” by Shixart1985 is licensed under CC BY 2.0. Source: Wikimedia Commons.

When to pick: June-bearing types crop heavily over 2-3 weeks in early summer (early June-early August window across early/mid/late cultivars); everbearing/day-neutral types crop in smaller flushes from late spring into early autumn (RHS + OSU Extension agree on the conceptual framework). Established plantings remain productive for around 3-4 harvest years before yield declines and renovation/replanting is recommended (OSU Extension).

Storage

Highly perishable: best eaten fresh soon after picking. Refrigerate unwashed and use within a few days, or freeze/preserve (for example as jam) any surplus.

Companion Planting

beneficial

Borago officinalis

Pollinator attraction

Gardener planting tomato seedlings beside a greenhouse — Maasaak, CC BY-SA 4.0
Maasaak, CC BY-SA 4.0
avoid shared disease

Solanum lycopersicum

Not a beneficial pairing -- this is a warning. Avoid planting strawberries in ground recently occupied by tomatoes, or the reverse, because both are highly susceptible to Verticillium wilt. RHS UK Advisory Service case records name both Fragaria and Solanum among the most frequently diagnosed…

Pollination

Pollinating insects (bees and other flower visitors)

RHS "Plants for pollinators" tag; "The flowers attract pollinating insects" (RHS profile page). Specific pollinator species not named by the source.

Plan your Strawberries planting

When to sow and plant Strawberries depends on your own frost dates. Check the Canada vegetable planting calendar, or the month-by-month guides that cover Strawberries: June. To work out where it fits in your beds, sketch your plot in the free Garden Layout Planner.

Growing Strawberry in another region

Sowing dates, frost timing and local advice differ by country. Use the guide for where you garden.

Sources

The full list of 21 sources behind this guide (Cornell University (Marvin Pritts), Ecological Entomology (Wiley) -- Griffiths-Lee, Nicholls & Goulson, 2020, FAO EcoCrop and others) is in the references of our UK guide to strawberries; they describe the plant itself, which is the same wherever it grows.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long do strawberries take to grow?

Typically 180–270 days, depending on cultivar and growing conditions.

What problems affect strawberries?

Our data links 4 diseases and 5 pests to this crop. See the sections above for each one and how to manage it.

Plan next season before the problems start

Short-season growing is arithmetic before it is technique: days to maturity against frost-free days decides what will finish at all. The Canada Garden Planner does that subtraction for your region before you sow.

Get the Canada Garden Planner →

Instant PDF download · Written for Canadian growing conditions

SoilCommander Editorial Team — under the direction of Nitin Sharma, Co-Founder

Every growing guide is checked against RHS, USDA Cooperative Extension, and other named horticultural authorities before publishing.

How this guide is put together

The growing data on this page — sowing windows, pests, diseases, soil and site requirements — comes from named horticultural sources, listed in References below, checked against Canadian hardiness-zone and frost-date data, with provincial agriculture and university extension sources cited directly where one exists for a crop. An automated pipeline assembles that verified data into the page you're reading: it selects which facts to lead with and builds the surrounding prose and layout. It does not invent a date, a source or a number — where a verified value for a field isn't available, the page leaves it out rather than guessing. A person reviews and publishes each page; nothing goes live unverified.

Vegetable Growing Guides Canada

Last verified 2026-07-27

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