How to Grow Taros USA | Care, Pests & Disease Control

Diseases

Taro leaf blight

high

Phytophthora colocasiae

CTAHR: the most prevalent taro disease in Hawaii, worst during wet seasons, recognised by purplish-brown, circular, water-soaked leaf spots exuding a clear yellow liquid; diminishes in dry months.

Phyllosticta leaf spot (taro)

low

Phyllosticta colocasiophyla

Named by CTAHR; seldom serious in well-managed upland taro plantings.

Southern blight

low

Sclerotium rolfsii

CTAHR names this as "dry rot," caused by the same Sclerotium rolfsii pathogen as the existing Southern blight entry; seldom serious in well-managed plantings.

Pests

Glasshouse red spider mite (two-spotted spider mite)

low

Tetranychus urticae

Named by RHS for UK glasshouse/container growing.

Glasshouse whitefly

low

Trialeurodes vaporariorum

Named by RHS for UK glasshouse/container growing.

Aphids

low

Aphididae (various spp.)

Named by both RHS (UK glasshouse) and CTAHR (upland Hawaii growing), damaging by sap-sucking on petioles and leaves, rarely serious unless in large numbers.

Taro leafhopper

moderate

Tarophagus proserpina

Named by CTAHR as one of the two most common upland Hawaii pests, recognisable by brown-to-black staining on petioles from sap oozing at puncture holes.

Quick Facts

Factor	Value
Sunlight	2-6 hours direct sun
Minimum survivable temp	10C
Drainage	Poorly-drained tolerated (RHS); CTAHR: deep, well-drained, friable loams, pH 5.5-6.5, moist soil at or near field capacity.
Lifecycle	Tuberous, evergreen perennial. RHS rates it H1B (10-15C minimum), grown in the UK as a container/conservatory plant moved outdoors only in summer. CTAHR describes upland (dryland, rainfed) and lowland (wetland, flooded) cultivation systems in its native tropical range.
Edible parts	corms, leaves

At a Glance

Growth Stages

Stage	BBCH	Notes
Planting	0	CTAHR: plant "hulis" (the upper 1/4-1/2in of the corm or cormel plus 8-10in of petiole) or small cormels 3-4in deep, spaced 18-24in apart in rows 18-24in apart. RHS: plant tubers in a large pot of humus-rich compost in warm conditions in early spring.
Canopy establishment	1	CTAHR: taro is very susceptible to weed competition for the first 3-4 months while the leaf canopy forms -- hand-pull or hoe weeds during this window; once the canopy closes, lush foliage shades out further weed growth on its own.
Vegetative growth and feeding	3	CTAHR: apply fertiliser before planting, then side-dress at two, four and six months after planting; upland taro tolerates prolonged waterlogging, but dasheen types should not be left waterlogged for long. RHS: water freely once in growth, with a weekly high-nitrogen feed.
Corm maturation and harvest	8	CTAHR: upland taro matures 8-10 months after planting, signalled by yellowing leaves and shortened petioles; dasheen is ready once cormels go dormant and leaves dry. For home use, taro can be harvested as needed over several weeks.

Harvest & Storage

When to pick: CTAHR: upland taro ready for harvest 8-10 months after planting, when leaves turn yellowish and petioles shorten to under 2ft with corms visibly protruding from the ground.

Storage

SAFETY: corms and leaves are harmful eaten raw (RHS) -- always cook thoroughly (boiled, steamed, baked, or fried) before eating. Dasheen corms store well cleaned, washed, drained and refrigerated; poi taro does not keep for long (CTAHR).

Taro, Seed to Harvest

The classic heart-shaped leaf

RHS describes taro's long-stalked, heart- or arrow-shaped leaves as reaching blades up to 60cm on metre-long stalks -- a dramatic foliage plant even before considering the edible corm.

Prominent leaf veins

CTAHR notes taro thrives in warm, moist conditions with evenly distributed rainfall -- the broad, ribbed leaf surface is built to shed heavy tropical rain.

An ornamental cultivar

RHS lists numerous taro cultivars bred for foliage colour and pattern -- 'Yellow Splash' shows the variegation some UK conservatory growers select for over eating quality.

A dark-leaved form

Leaf colour varies widely across taro cultivars, from plain green to near-black with a contrasting pale midrib, as seen here.

Reddish petioles

Some taro varieties carry distinctive red or purple-tinted stems and petioles -- a trait breeders and growers alike select for in ornamental and culinary varieties.

Mixed cultivars growing together

CTAHR notes several named varieties are grown for different purposes -- some for poi, others for table use or chips -- and colour is often the easiest way to tell them apart at a glance.

Reddish-brown foliage

RHS grows taro in the UK largely for this kind of dramatic foliage display, moving pots outdoors for summer once the risk of frost has passed.

Light green foliage in full growth

CTAHR describes taro as very susceptible to weed competition early on, but once the leaf canopy closes like this, the plant shades out weeds on its own.

Leaf blade and central vein

The sharply defined central vein and radiating side veins are characteristic of the whole Colocasia genus, sometimes called elephant ear for the leaf's size and shape.

References

1. Royal Horticultural Society - Colocasia esculenta (taro)

   Hardiness H1B (10-15C minimum). Soil: loam, poorly-drained, acid or neutral pH. Sun/aspect: partial shade, any aspect. Exposure: sheltered. Size: 1-1.5m height and spread, 5-10 years to maturity. Planting: tubers in a large pot of humus-rich compost in warm conditions in early spring, positioned outdoors in a sunny or lightly shaded, wind-sheltered spot from early summer; water freely in growth with a weekly high-nitrogen feed. Winter: move to greenhouse/conservatory, or lift and store the tuber dry. Propagation: division in winter. Pests: glasshouse red spider mite, aphids, glasshouse whitefly. Diseases: generally disease-free. Safety: harmful if eaten, skin/eye irritant -- wear gloves and protective equipment when handling.

2. University of Hawaii at Manoa, College of Tropical Agriculture and Human Resources (CTAHR), Cooperative Extension Service - Upland Taro (CTAHR Fact Sheet, Home Garden Vegetable no. 18)

   Soil: deep, well-drained, friable loams, pH 5.5-6.5; avoid rocky/stony soils (deformed corms, hard harvest). Climate: warm, moist, evenly distributed rainfall; supplemental irrigation needed in dry areas. Planting: rows 18-24in apart, plants 18-24in apart within rows; "hulis" (sets, upper 1/4-1/2in of corm/cormel plus 8-10in of petiole) or small cormels planted 3-4in deep. Fertilizer: 7-30-20 or similar at 2.75-3lb/100sq ft before planting, side-dressed at 2/4/6 months. Irrigation: moist soil at or near field capacity; upland taro tolerates prolonged waterlogging, dasheen does not. Weeds: hand-pull or hoe for the first 3-4 months until the leaf canopy closes and shades them out. Pests: taro leafhopper (Tarophagus proserpina) and aphids (Aphis spp.), damaging by sap-sucking on petioles/leaves, rarely serious unless in large numbers. Diseases: taro leaf blight (Phytophthora colocasiae, most prevalent, worst in wet seasons, purplish-brown water-soaked leaf spots with clear yellow exudate); dry rot (Sclerotium rolfsii); Phyllosticta leaf spot (Phyllosticta colocasiophyla) -- both less common in well-managed plantings. Harvest: upland taro ready 8-10 months after planting, when leaves yellow and petioles shorten to under 2ft; dasheen ready when cormels go dormant and leaves dry. Storage: dasheen corms clean, wash, drain, refrigerate for extended storage; poi taro does not store well. Leaves for laulau/luau can be picked any time, taking only young leaves while the plant keeps growing. Uses: corms made into poi, or boiled/steamed/baked/fried into chips; leaves used as a cooked vegetable in laulau.

2 independent sources are cited for this crop. Where they disagree - soil pH is the clearest case - every figure is preserved rather than averaged into false precision.