How to Grow Taros UK

On this page
  1. Taro (Colocasia esculenta)
  2. When to Plant Taros in the UK
  3. Quick Facts
  4. At a Glance
  5. Growth Stages
  6. Harvest & Storage
  7. Diseases
  8. Pests
  9. Taro, Seed to Harvest
  10. Plan your Taros planting
  11. Growing Taro in another region
  12. References
  13. Frequently Asked Questions

In the UK, taro goes in the ground early March to late April.

Timing is the decision that matters most in the UK: sowing early March, and that same window applies across all 4 regions covered here.

The short answer

Plant
Early March to late April
Biggest risk
Taro leaf blight

Core growing advice on this page is checked against named horticultural sources — see References.

Taro (Colocasia esculenta)

Taro (Colocasia esculenta) heart-shaped leaves in a botanical garden — “Taroblätter im botanischen Garten in München-Nymphenburg 01” by Kritzolina is licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0.

2 sources cited · Verified

When to Plant Taros in the UK

When to plant taros in the UK: in Southern England, sow early March to late April. Find your area in the table below.

Light green taro leaves catching sunlight
Light green taro leaves catching sunlight. Photo: “Starr 070515-7049 Colocasia esculenta” by Forest & Kim Starr, CC BY 3.0.
Region Sow
Southern England early March to late April
Midlands early March to late April
Northern England early March to late April
Scotland early March to late April
Southern England - detail & sources

RHS: pot up tubers in warm conditions in early spring, moving outdoors only from early summer once frost risk has passed. Grown strictly as a container/conservatory subject across the whole UK (H1B, 10-15°C minimum) -- the regime does not vary meaningfully by region since it never goes outdoors year-round.

Midlands - detail & sources

Same under-glass regime as elsewhere in the UK -- RHS's H1B rating means this crop is never grown outdoors year-round regardless of region.

Northern England - detail & sources

Same under-glass regime as elsewhere in the UK -- RHS's H1B rating means this crop is never grown outdoors year-round regardless of region.

Scotland - detail & sources

Same under-glass regime as elsewhere in the UK -- RHS's H1B rating means this crop is never grown outdoors year-round regardless of region.

A page from the UK Vegetable Garden Planner PDF: the crop rotation planner, with a planning grid and four-bed rotation tips

Plan your taro — and the rest of the plot

This page covers taro. For every crop's sowing months on one chart, use the free UK vegetable planting calendar, and browse the UK vegetable growing guides for what else to grow alongside it. When you want the whole season on paper, the UK Vegetable Garden Planner is a printable PDF:

  • Twelve month-by-month sowing and harvest spreads
  • Raised bed, allotment and container layout pages for your own plot
  • A four-year crop rotation planner
  • Seed inventory, sowing log and harvest tracker
See inside the UK Vegetable Garden Planner →

Instant PDF download · reprint every season

Quick Facts

Taro (Colocasia esculenta) heart-shaped leaves in a botanical garden
Taro (Colocasia esculenta) heart-shaped leaves in a botanical garden. Photo by Kritzolina, CC BY-SA 4.0.
Factor Value
Drainage Poorly-drained tolerated (RHS); CTAHR: deep, well-drained, friable loams, pH 5.5-6.5, moist soil at or near field capacity.
Lifecycle Tuberous, evergreen perennial. RHS rates it H1B (10-15°C minimum), grown in the UK as a container/conservatory plant moved outdoors only in summer. CTAHR describes upland (dryland, rainfed) and lowland (wetland, flooded) cultivation systems in its native tropical range.
Edible parts corms, leaves

At a Glance

A mixed colony of green and dark-leaved taro cultivars
A mixed colony of green and dark-leaved taro cultivars. Photo: “Starr-070515-7069-Colocasia esculenta-habit with dark leaves-Hoomaluhia Botanical Garden-Oahu (24593750470)” by Forest and Kim Starr, CC BY 3.0 us.
Colocasia esculenta Taro Taro leaf blight Phyllosticta leaf spot… Southern blight Glasshouse red spider m… Glasshouse whitefly Aphids Taro leafhopper DISEASES PESTS

Growth Stages

Taro plants with reddish petioles and stems
Taro plants with reddish petioles and stems. Photo: “Starr 070515-7070 Colocasia esculenta” by Forest & Kim Starr, CC BY 3.0.
Stage BBCH Notes
Planting 0 CTAHR: plant "hulis" (the upper 1/4-1/2in of the corm or cormel plus 8-10in of petiole) or small cormels 3-4in deep, spaced 18-24in apart in rows 18-24in apart. RHS: plant tubers in a large pot of humus-rich compost in warm conditions in early spring.
Canopy establishment 1 CTAHR: taro is very susceptible to weed competition for the first 3-4 months while the leaf canopy forms -- hand-pull or hoe weeds during this window; once the canopy closes, lush foliage shades out further weed growth on its own.
Vegetative growth and feeding 3 CTAHR: apply fertiliser before planting, then side-dress at two, four and six months after planting; upland taro tolerates prolonged waterlogging, but dasheen types should not be left waterlogged for long. RHS: water freely once in growth, with a weekly high-nitrogen feed.
Corm maturation and harvest 8 CTAHR: upland taro matures 8-10 months after planting, signalled by yellowing leaves and shortened petioles; dasheen is ready once cormels go dormant and leaves dry. For home use, taro can be harvested as needed over several weeks.

Harvest & Storage

Close-up of a taro leaf blade and central vein with dew drops
Close-up of a taro leaf blade and central vein with dew drops. Photo: “Starr 060329-6828 Colocasia esculenta” by Forest & Kim Starr, CC BY 3.0.

When to pick: CTAHR: upland taro ready for harvest 8-10 months after planting, when leaves turn yellowish and petioles shorten to under 2ft with corms visibly protruding from the ground.

Storage

SAFETY: corms and leaves are harmful eaten raw (RHS) -- always cook thoroughly (boiled, steamed, baked, or fried) before eating. Dasheen corms store well cleaned, washed, drained and refrigerated; poi taro does not keep for long (CTAHR).

Diseases

A dark-leaved taro cultivar with pale midrib
A dark-leaved taro cultivar with pale midrib. Photo: “Starr 070515-7058 Colocasia esculenta” by Forest & Kim Starr, CC BY 3.0.
Taro leaf blight
high

Phytophthora colocasiae

CTAHR: the most prevalent taro disease in Hawaii, worst during wet seasons, recognised by purplish-brown, circular, water-soaked leaf spots exuding a clear yellow liquid; diminishes in dry months.

Phyllosticta leaf spot (taro)
low

Phyllosticta colocasiophyla

Named by CTAHR; seldom serious in well-managed upland taro plantings.

Southern blight
low

Sclerotium rolfsii

CTAHR names this as "dry rot," caused by the same Sclerotium rolfsii pathogen as the existing Southern blight entry; seldom serious in well-managed plantings.

Pests

Taro foliage with reddish-brown colouring in a garden setting
Taro foliage with reddish-brown colouring in a garden setting. Photo: “Starr 070515-7056 Colocasia esculenta” by Forest & Kim Starr, CC BY 3.0.
Two-spotted red spider mite with silk threads, magnified — Gilles San Martin, CC BY-SA 2.0
Gilles San Martin, CC BY-SA 2.0
Glasshouse red spider mite (two-spotted spider mite)
low

Tetranychus urticae

Named by RHS for UK glasshouse/container growing.

Glasshouse whitefly adult on a leaf — Sanja565658, CC BY-SA 3.0
Sanja565658, CC BY-SA 3.0
Glasshouse whitefly
low

Trialeurodes vaporariorum

Named by RHS for UK glasshouse/container growing.

low

Aphididae (various spp.)

Named by both RHS (UK glasshouse) and CTAHR (upland Hawaii growing), damaging by sap-sucking on petioles and leaves, rarely serious unless in large numbers.

Taro leafhopper
moderate

Tarophagus proserpina

Named by CTAHR as one of the two most common upland Hawaii pests, recognisable by brown-to-black staining on petioles from sap oozing at puncture holes.

Plan your Taros planting

When to sow and plant Taros depends on your own frost dates. Check the UK vegetable planting calendar. To work out where it fits in your beds, sketch your plot in the free Garden Layout Planner.

Growing Taro in another region

Sowing dates, frost timing and local advice differ by country. Use the guide for where you garden.

References

  1. Hardiness H1B (10-15°C minimum). Soil: loam, poorly-drained, acid or neutral pH. Sun/aspect: partial shade, any aspect. Exposure: sheltered. Size: 1-1.5m height and spread, 5-10 years to maturity. Planting: tubers in a large pot of humus-rich compost in warm conditions in early spring, positioned outdoors in a sunny or lightly shaded, wind-sheltered spot from early summer; water freely in growth with a weekly high-nitrogen feed. Winter: move to greenhouse/conservatory, or lift and store the tuber dry. Propagation: division in winter. Pests: glasshouse red spider mite, aphids, glasshouse whitefly. Diseases: generally disease-free. Safety: harmful if eaten, skin/eye irritant -- wear gloves and protective equipment when handling.

  2. Soil: deep, well-drained, friable loams, pH 5.5-6.5; avoid rocky/stony soils (deformed corms, hard harvest). Climate: warm, moist, evenly distributed rainfall; supplemental irrigation needed in dry areas. Planting: rows 18-24in apart, plants 18-24in apart within rows; "hulis" (sets, upper 1/4-1/2in of corm/cormel plus 8-10in of petiole) or small cormels planted 3-4in deep. Fertilizer: 7-30-20 or similar at 2.75-3lb/100sq ft before planting, side-dressed at 2/4/6 months. Irrigation: moist soil at or near field capacity; upland taro tolerates prolonged waterlogging, dasheen does not. Weeds: hand-pull or hoe for the first 3-4 months until the leaf canopy closes and shades them out. Pests: taro leafhopper (Tarophagus proserpina) and aphids (Aphis spp.), damaging by sap-sucking on petioles/leaves, rarely serious unless in large numbers. Diseases: taro leaf blight (Phytophthora colocasiae, most prevalent, worst in wet seasons, purplish-brown water-soaked leaf spots with clear yellow exudate); dry rot (Sclerotium rolfsii); Phyllosticta leaf spot (Phyllosticta colocasiophyla) -- both less common in well-managed plantings. Harvest: upland taro ready 8-10 months after planting, when leaves yellow and petioles shorten to under 2ft; dasheen ready when cormels go dormant and leaves dry. Storage: dasheen corms clean, wash, drain, refrigerate for extended storage; poi taro does not store well. Leaves for laulau/luau can be picked any time, taking only young leaves while the plant keeps growing. Uses: corms made into poi, or boiled/steamed/baked/fried into chips; leaves used as a cooked vegetable in laulau.

2 independent sources are cited for this crop. Where they disagree - soil pH is the clearest case - every figure is preserved rather than averaged into false precision.

Frequently Asked Questions

When should I sow taro in the UK?

In Southern England, from early March. In Scotland, wait until early March. Treat these as a guide rather than a fixed date — the governing rule is to sow only once frost risk has passed and temperatures are reliably warm enough.

When do I sow taro?

Sow early March to late April.

What problems affect taro?

Our data links 3 diseases and 4 pests to this crop. See the sections above for each one and how to manage it.

Plan next season before the problems start

Most of the advice on this page comes down to timing and spacing — sowing at the right moment, rotating beds, and giving plants enough airflow. The UK Garden Planner lays your plot out month by month so those decisions are already made before the season starts.

Get the UK Garden Planner →

Instant PDF download · Written for UK growing conditions

SoilCommander Editorial Team — under the guidance of Nitin Sharma, Co-Founder

Every growing guide is checked against RHS, USDA Cooperative Extension, and other named horticultural authorities before publishing. How we check our facts.

How this guide is put together

The growing data on this page — sowing windows, pests, diseases, soil and site requirements — comes from named horticultural sources, listed in References below, checked against RHS and Met Office guidance. An automated pipeline assembles that verified data into the page you're reading: it selects which facts to lead with and builds the surrounding prose and layout. It does not invent a date, a source or a number — where a verified value for a field isn't available, the page leaves it out rather than guessing. A person reviews and publishes each page; nothing goes live unverified.

Vegetable Growing Guides UK

Last verified 2026-09-04

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