How to Grow Tree Onions USA

On this page
  1. Tree Onion (Allium x proliferum)
  2. Soil & Growing Conditions
  3. Growth Stages
  4. Quick Facts
  5. At a Glance
  6. Harvest & Storage
  7. Diseases
  8. Pests
  9. Tree Onion, Topset to Walk
  10. Plan your Tree Onions planting
  11. Growing Tree Onion in another region
  12. Sources
  13. Frequently Asked Questions

Tree onions (Allium x proliferum) — herbaceous perennial.

Unlike an annual crop, the work here is front-loaded into establishment: get the planting and the site right and the same plants crop for several seasons.

Core growing advice on this page is checked against named horticultural sources — see References.

Tree Onion (Allium x proliferum)

A clump of tree onion with characteristically curled, twisting hollow leaves — “Walking Onions (7043569969)” by Tony Alter from Newport News, USA is licensed under CC BY 2.0.

5 sources cited · Verified

Soil & Growing Conditions

Water: About 1in of water a week; MSU notes it does not thrive in wet or extremely heavy soils.

Growth Stages

Stage BBCH Notes
Planting bulbils 0 Plant bulbils (topsets) 2in deep in full sun. Fall is the optimal planting season, though Penn State notes they can go in spring, summer, fall or winter as long as the ground is not frozen. Larger bulblets establish better than smaller ones (MSU).
Establishment & overwintering 3 A hardy perennial to zone 3 that stays green through winter (MSU) -- unlike most alliums it does not need to be lifted or protected for the cold months.
Leaf & topset development 6 Hollow leaves can be cut and used like chives or green onions at any point. Through summer the plant sends up a flowering stem that produces a cluster of bulbils (topsets) instead of a normal flower, green at first.
Topsets mature & the plant "walks" 8 Topsets turn reddish or purple as they mature (Penn State) and can be picked at that point. Left in place, the stem eventually dries, weakens and topples under their weight, and the bulbils root wherever they land -- moving the plant roughly 2-3ft (Penn State) to about one stem-length (MSU) across the garden each year. The underground parent bulb can also be harvested, though it ends further growth from that spot.

Quick Facts

Factor Value
Soil texture Loamy sand or sandy loam (MSU)
Drainage Free-draining
Lifecycle herbaceous perennial
Edible parts leaves, bulbils, bulbs

At a Glance

Allium x proliferum Tree Onion Allium white rot Allium leaf miner DISEASES PESTS

Harvest & Storage

When to pick: Topsets can be picked once they colour from green to reddish or purple (Penn State). Leaves can be cut like chives or green onions at any point while green. The underground parent bulb is edible but tough-skinned and pungent (MSU), and lifting it ends further growth from that plant.

Diseases

Allium white rot
low

Stromatinia cepivora (syn. Sclerotium cepivorum)

Neither MSU nor Penn State names a specific disease for tree onion. RHS lists onions, garlic, leeks and "other alliums" as at risk from white rot, whose sclerotia persist in soil for 15-20+ years; tree onion is a true…

Pests

Allium leaf miner
low

Phytomyza gymnostoma

Neither MSU nor Penn State names a specific pest for tree onion. RHS lists "leeks, onion, chives, shallot and garlic" as affected by allium leaf miner; tree onion is a true Allium grown similarly, so the same general…

Plan your Tree Onions planting

When to sow and plant Tree Onions depends on your own frost dates. Check the USA vegetable planting calendar. To work out where it fits in your beds, sketch your plot in the free Garden Layout Planner.

Growing Tree Onion in another region

Sowing dates, frost timing and local advice differ by country. Use the guide for where you garden.

Sources

  1. Heirloom perennial onion producing a cluster of bulbils (topsets) at the top of the stalk, green at first, turning reddish or purple as they mature. When the cluster gets too heavy the stalk falls over and takes root where it lands -- the plant "walks" roughly 2-3ft across the garden per year. Plant bulbils 2in deep in full sun; fall is the optimal planting season, though bulbils can go in any time the ground isn't frozen. Leaves used like green onions; topsets fried, cooked in soups, or eaten raw in salads; underground bulbs are edible but very hot, and harvesting them prevents regrowth from that point.

  2. Allium x proliferum is a cross between the cultivated onion (A. cepa) and the Welsh onion (A. fistulosum), hardy in USDA zones 3-10. Instead of flowers and seed it makes a cluster of BULBILS (topsets) at the top of the stalk; if they are not picked, the stalk flops over under their weight and the bulbils root where they land -- which is how the plant "walks" across the bed, moving only 2-3ft a year. Propagate by breaking off bulbils and planting them no more than an inch deep and 4-5in apart. Plant in FULL SUN somewhere you are content to keep them long term, since they are perennial. Eat the tender young shoots and stems as spring onions, the small underdeveloped basal onions (VERY HOT), and any bulbils not replanted, which keep a few months in store. Pests: thrips can be a problem in hot dry summers but the damage is mainly cosmetic. Not susceptible to juglone.

These 2 sources are specific to this region. The full list of 5 sources behind this guide (Michigan State University Extension, Penn State Extension, Royal Horticultural Society and others) is in the references of our UK guide to tree onions; they describe the plant itself, which is the same wherever it grows.

Frequently Asked Questions

What problems affect tree onions?

Our data links 1 disease and 1 pest to this crop. See the sections above for each one and how to manage it.

Plan next season before the problems start

Almost everything on this page resolves to your own frost dates rather than the calendar — the last spring frost moves by roughly two months between zone 3 and zone 10. The USA Garden Planner works from your zone so the timing is already decided before the season starts.

Get the USA Garden Planner →

Instant PDF download · Written for US growing conditions

SoilCommander Editorial Team — under the guidance of Nitin Sharma, Co-Founder

Every growing guide is checked against RHS, USDA Cooperative Extension, and other named horticultural authorities before publishing. How we check our facts.

How this guide is put together

The growing data on this page — sowing windows, pests, diseases, soil and site requirements — comes from named horticultural sources, listed in References below, checked against USDA hardiness-zone and frost-date data, with Cooperative Extension sources cited directly where one exists for a crop. An automated pipeline assembles that verified data into the page you're reading: it selects which facts to lead with and builds the surrounding prose and layout. It does not invent a date, a source or a number — where a verified value for a field isn't available, the page leaves it out rather than guessing. A person reviews and publishes each page; nothing goes live unverified.

Vegetable Growing Guides USA

Last verified 2026-09-02

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